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  #1  
Old 08-02-2011, 11:43 AM
SBD SBD is offline
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Location: Ukiah CA
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Default Wiring question

I am installing new gauges and in the past my grounds and lights etc. were daisy chained from post to post to simplify things. My new gauges don't have posts, so how do you daisy chain things together correctly?

Thanks as always!
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  #2  
Old 08-03-2011, 01:32 AM
strick strick is offline
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Default Re: Wiring question

If you don't have posts then you will have to use a busbar. They make protective covers for Positive busbars. That is how I would do it. I dont care for wire nuts in a boat.

strick
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  #3  
Old 08-03-2011, 08:53 AM
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Default Re: Wiring question

A fused busbar is the only way to go IMHO. A little more wire in the bundle, but much easier to isolate and troubleshoot should the need arise. I found that fuses on the console next to the switch tend to corrode a lot faster than protected fuses. Make sure you keep a dry record somewhere of which terminal feeds which unit. I also "bus- barred" all my ground leads individually. One open ground on a daisy chain and lots of stuff quits working! Remember, anywhere two pieces of wire come together open to the air is a corrosion site waiting to happen. A well protected busbar coated lightly with a good corrosion preventative can help eliminate a lot of that. Just MHO
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  #4  
Old 08-03-2011, 09:06 AM
pelican pelican is offline
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Default Re: Wiring question

Quote:
A fused busbar is the only way to go IMHO. A little more wire in the bundle, but much easier to isolate and troubleshoot should the need arise. I found that fuses on the console next to the switch tend to corrode a lot faster than protected fuses. Make sure you keep a dry record somewhere of which terminal feeds which unit. I also "bus- barred" all my ground leads individually. One open ground on a daisy chain and lots of stuff quits working! Remember, anywhere two pieces of wire come together open to the air is a corrosion site waiting to happen. A well protected busbar coated lightly with a good corrosion preventative can help eliminate a lot of that. Just MHO
that's good advice - but - the picture's terrible.evey connector isn't protected - connectors need to be heat shrink sealed - this will oprevent corrosion - by viewing the picture,it's clear the connectors are not properly sealed - sorry bro...
the screws - holding connectors to either the ground buss,or the fuse box - it's a good practice to get into,coat the threaded area in liquid electric tape,then install the screw - this will prevent the screws from vibrating loose - a common failure point.
those "main" power and ground wires - these should be secured,not free to flap around - if left in their current state - the connectors will fail,due to the wires swinging around...
wire ? what's that wire ?
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  #5  
Old 08-03-2011, 04:53 PM
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Default Re: Wiring question

Pelican,

Man - sorry for posting the picture - I guess I won't ever do that again! That coil of wire is spare fused connections for anything I might add in the future. The end of each wire in the coil is sealed. It keeps me from having to access the busbars to add equipment to spare fused terminals. Each connection on both busbars is a crimped, heat-shrunk terminal that has a sealant inside it. When heat is applied, the covering shrinks, melts the sealant and seals the entire connection. The covers are off both busbars for the picture. All terminals are coated with a milspec anti-corrosion film. The main power and ground leads are secured to the shelf (see the clip in the picture) and under the shelf all the way to the battery switch. The mounting board was encased in glass and then glassed to the inside of the console. I apologize for not making all this clear in the first posting.
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  #6  
Old 08-03-2011, 05:22 PM
DonV DonV is offline
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Default Re: Wiring question

Shooot....looks good to me!!! At least you can see, take pictures of yours. Mine is just visible and a royal pain to get too. I did go the same direction as you did with a glassed in mounting board. 3/4" thick plywood works well with 3/4" screws.......no holes through the console. I guess the bottom line with all the care we take to waterproof everything.....it's still saltwater and saltwater is in love with electrical connections.
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  #7  
Old 08-03-2011, 10:40 PM
BigLew BigLew is offline
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Default Re: Wiring question

I hate to be a piss ant, but for the sake of a possible group lesson, Where are the drip loops?

I'm probably wrong here, but ...? Just my 2 cents.
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  #8  
Old 08-03-2011, 10:48 PM
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Default Re: Wiring question

Like I said - I'm sorry I posted the picture - it won't happen again I can promise you. For the sake of a group lesson, and in a boat that runs 6 days a week but is apparently wired wrong, I'm outta here...
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  #9  
Old 08-04-2011, 12:02 AM
BigMike8o9 BigMike8o9 is offline
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Default Re: Wiring question

It looks better then any of the many boats I have had. Better then my Seacraft factory wireing does after a quarter century of service.
I hope my new wireing looks that good when I am done.
I also hope that this kindly site won't become like that shooting galery Bloody Decks.
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  #10  
Old 08-04-2011, 08:10 AM
hermco hermco is offline
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Location: Jensen Beach, FL
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Default Re: Wiring question

As I understand it the gauges have no posts just wire pigtails coming out from them? Common solution is to butt connect them.
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