Airmar M260

Hooper · #1 05-21-2007, 08:02 AM

Who is using this shoot thru transducer on their SeaCraft and do you like it? I bought a Furuno 582l and I need a 'ducer, this seems to be the biggest and the baddest. How much can I expect to pay????

-Hooper

warthog5 · #2 05-21-2007, 10:10 AM

Aprox $700 to $750.

cSickNick · #3 05-21-2007, 01:53 PM

I have one and like it!

It is expensive but from the size of this brick you seem to pay by the pound!

Give Jim a call at BOE ... he should be able to give you the best price

Seacraft guys pay less than Mako guys ....

- Nick

Hooper · #4 05-21-2007, 04:50 PM

Glad it is a good product, I ordered one today from Consumer's Marine, look forward to using it. Any special mounting issues, I have read their website, seems straight forward....

BigLew · #5 05-21-2007, 07:11 PM

Hooper,
The only "trick" I can think of is that you want to avoid any bubbles when you set the transducer into its mount. A suggestion is that you put some coupleing gel on the tranducer as well as in the mounting collar. You want to be cautious to set the xducer in so no bubbles form. Try to get some ultrasound gel from your local hospital, if you know somebody. They should have plenty in the cardiology or obstetrics(babies) testing labs. Good luck.

warthog5 · #6 05-21-2007, 10:35 PM

Ah! The M-260 ducer is not glued in. The box is. Then the ducer is mounted in the box and the box filled with environmentally friendly antifreeze.

http://www.airmartechnology.com/uplo...hures/M260.pdf

http://www.airmartechnology.com/airm...All&PageNo=101

BigLew · #7 05-21-2007, 11:02 PM

Warthog,
That's ULTRASOUND coupling gel, not glue or adhesive of any type. Absent using a surfactant of some sort on the ducer to minimize the formation of bubbles, a coating of the ULTRASOUND gel on the face of the ducer should minimize the potential of bubble formation as it is placed into the mounting collar, or box as you call it.

What you are trying to do is to form an ultrasound conducive coupling between the face of the ducer and the water. Should there be any voids in the fiberglass or column of coupling medium (air bubbles in the gel or antifreeze), that will have a negative effect on the transmission/reception of the ultarsound signals being transmitted and received by the ducer.

I'm just trying to offer a sound bit of information.

warthog5 · #8 05-21-2007, 11:32 PM

Here is a M-260 box that has had the angle cut on it and glassed to the hull. The X-ducer mounts in the lid of the box. The face does not contact the hull.

I think your talking something different than a M-260?

Hooper · #9 05-25-2007, 02:15 PM

I got my unit yesterday, what is the best way to obtain the proper deadrise angle to cut that box and what tool is best to cut that box?

I read the instructions that show to invert the box and use a carpenter's level to ensure it is level, then mark a line, but space is limited in our boats, I don't see how I will do that trick. My thought is to take ths box, lay a level across the top, press them against the outside of the transom and mark my angle that way.

Same angle right? Just taken outside the boat rather that in the bilge and since I will be placing it just forward of the transom anyway, I think this method would be fine.... what say you all?

As far as a tool goes, I am going to look at this thing and give it some thought right now....

JohnB · #10 06-04-2007, 05:12 PM

I have one, they work great.
As for mounting, take a level, across the top, side to side.
Hold it to where it's level, measure the gap. On the other side of it, where your going to cut, draw a line equal to the gap measurement you just did, then draw a line on the sides from that line, to the edge. I cut mine with a jig saw with a med blade. You might want to take a grinder and rough up the surface on the boat, then wipe down with acetone.
I would suggest using GE 2, marine silicone to mount it. Supposedly, they have found that mineral oil softens 5200. If you have to move it, you will be able to unattach it.
Mine has been in 3 years, and has held up find. I put a bead on the bottom, and set it in place, then after it dried, put a bead on the inside and outside. You might want to put some corrosion X on the top "stainless" plate. Every one of those I have seen, rust in about 3 months. For what you pay for it, it sure is a cheap piece of stainless. I used mineral oil in mine, some are using antifreeze. If you have any questions, send me a PM, or you can give me a call. They are great ducers.