Trailer for 23 Inboard

[Hookdude]

I need to set up a trailer for a 23 Inboard.
What are proper bunk spacing and angles for hull contact?
Also, the height needed to keep the wheel and rudder from scraping?

Which manufacturers should I consider or, especially, avoid?

Thanks,
Bob

[Old'sCool]

Avoid tie-down disc brakes, go Kodiak. Avoid oil bath hubs, go grease.

[Briguy]

I have a 2002 continental trailer with superlube grease hubs. Before I did the Melbourne trip my buddy Nick and I pulled off all of the hubs and did inspection. Two of the rear grease seals were leaking a little. Long story short we pulled everything apart and it was soooooo easy. These hubs work amazing. The superlubes are all SS and the bearings were tight. Repacking of the bearings is not recommended. Just assemble them greasy and pump, pump and pump grease in. It goes through the center of the axle, greases the rear bearing then flows to the front.

This was a much better experience than the old style bearing buddy system. As a side not Nick has oil bath bearing and torsion bars. No probs.

[gofastsandman]

Hookdude,
Glad you posted this, as I have a couple of questions as well.
But you first. Most small inboard trailers have a rear cross-member with a dip in the center for road/ramp grounding protection. Check out a ski boat dealer as they and Slamrock are about the only small inboards left out there. You`ll see what I mean. The bunks should be fairly tight to the strakes and bunks angled on top to match the hull. Then you`ll need to weigh the whole thing and move the winch stand forward or aft to get @ 5% tongue weight on the ball. A trailer shop can do this in about an hour.

I`ve noticed a lot of you salty old pretzels run hot dipped galvanized trailers and rollers. I get the roller part. I have an aluminum float on with dis-similar metal issues.
Would a galv float on out last an alum float on?
Are they more rigid?
Do they ride better?
Favorite brand?
GFS

[Old'sCool]

Galv. don't float away like an alum. will in current/steep ramps.

[Hookdude]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Reelescape1- is "tie down" a manufacturer of disc brakes? (BTW If I had the wherewithal your boat would be sold already! She's gorgeous!)

Briguy - Although bearing maintenance is a piece of cake (my Dad started me doing it twice a year when I was 9)I'll probably go with the Superlubes for their longevity. Thanks.

Sandy - The rear cross member protecting the wheel and rudder is something I'll definitely add!

The boat in question is not yet in my possession (don't want to jinx myself until it is, so "stand by" for details)and out of state so I can't take any measurements.

What I need to know is the width between the bunks, the angle they need to be for full hull contact and their height from the ground.

If I find a used trailer the height's not yet imperative as I can remove the wheel and rudder for initially transporting the boat home. I can make new ones or raise them after that. But the spacing and angles I'd like to get set before I go get the boat. I'd hate to have to fiddle with them hundreds of miles from home.
"The need for the proper wrench is directly proportional to the distance from one's tool box."

And should I buy new it would be best if I give the manufacturer the right specs in case they're not familiar with an inboard Seacraft. Float On was but at $6300 I'm going to shop around. A Venture dealer quoted $3300 but the bunks are mounted too flimsy for my liking and he had no clue about the boat model.

My requirements are:
-Aluminum I beam for a 23-25 or 24-26 foot boat
Extra length will help keep the tow vehicle out of the water, especially with higher bunks

-7000# tandem torsion axles with 15" tires
6K would be more than enough for the boat usually. But during the commercial season(now)I'll be transporting 1000 to 1500 lbs of ice for the guys I fish with. (I live near 3 hockey rinks so get it for free.)And, hopefully, close to that in fish on the return trip. (Wishful thinking!! )

-Disc brakes
They work better than and are a thousand times easier to service than drums. Last longer too.

-stainless hardware would be nice but I could probably replace plated stuff myself for less money (I have loads of it already and get it almost wholesale anyway.)

Other options (Aluminum wheels,led lights,etc.) will depend on cost and budget (And how badly I want to emulate Capt. Chuck's level of Gucci! )

Gotta mow the lawn before heading out to load up on ice then catch bait and the tide for tonight's excursion.

Cheers,
Bob

[Old'sCool]

Thank you! Tie-Down is a manufacturer. I recommend Kodiak w/SS calipers, (You will have to specify disc material)post-lights in LED, no Goodyear Marathons (they're made in China and are NOT the same quality of years past), I'm happy with my new Maxxus radials.