Tore the skin right off my bottom!

[Ed]

Heyh Billybob-

According to the original lamination schedule on this site...your Seacraft is made up of the following layers:

3/4 oz mat
1.5oz mat
1.5oz mat
1.5oz mat
22oz roven
1.5oz mat
22 oz roven
1.5 oz mat
22oz roven

With that in mind after the hull is grinded and prepped, I would lay up two layers of 1.5oz mat and then follow with alernating layers of 1808 biaxial & 1.5 oz mat until you reached the height of the original laminate. I think the maximum chemical bond window is about 72 hours with standard resin (layers 2 through whatever. Obviously, layer 1 will be a mechanical bond because the hull is 30 years old hence my reason for suggesting that you start out with two layers of 1.5oz mat which will offer good adhesion for the subsequent layers)

[Bigshrimpin]

Billy Bob - sorry to hear about your troubles. If you have a digital camera I'd love to see some pics.

Ed - do you have a perfer method when working with 1.5 oz mat? is there any tricks that you know of to keep the fibers under control when you wet it out?

[Ed]

Hey Big Shrimpin-

With all fiberglass (especially mat) the key is not to "handle" it too much. Measure what you need (sometimes even making a paper template for complex layouts will help), cut it and then set it aside in a clean, dry place. You definitely do not want to contaminate the fiberglass with dust, water or dirt. Usually, if you wet out the surface area first with some resin and then lay the mat on top of it and run a somewhat damp roller over it...the mat will quickly soak up the resin and won't get too many fuzzies. You really run into trouble with fuzzies when you start tearing the mat, instead of cutting it. Another thing is to make sure you change your gloves often and keep all your tools, rollers, etc in a 5 gallon bucket with acetone so that they are constantly kept clean.

[warthog5]

Billybob I'm assuming you are going to flip the boat upside down to do this repair. Is that correct?

[ocuyler]

I'm assuming you are going to flip the boat upside down

[Billybob]

Thanks for the info Ed.I will get some digitals when I get it into the warehouse and set up.It's really a mess, at least a couple layers tore off and the rovings exposed and it tore clean off from point of impact all the way to the transom. Even forward of the impact point,there is some delam, so I will have to cut up until I find a good bond and hopefully not get up into the color coat because I don't want to have to paint the whole hull.
The part that bothers me is the cause.The guys at the yard think that it was a layup problem, but it's hard to believe that it took 30 years until something whacked it just right to cause this. But, what else could it be?
As for flipping it, I thought about it but I really don't want to.I plan to put the keel down on some big tires or blocks and then lay it over on it's other chine on some tires and prop it up. It's the middle "step" on the port side.It's gonna be a bitch because it's about an 18' run, so I'll have to work quick with each pot I make.
Now, I'm just waiting for that check and hoping my buddy has the storage avail when I'm ready.
.
How many beers is this gonna take? [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

[warthog5]

Good Luck.
http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw6.htm

[Billybob]

WOW Warthog - very nice work [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
.
Thanks everyone - I'll keep ya posted.
Bill