Classic SeaCraft Community  

Go Back   Classic SeaCraft Community > Recovered Threads
FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-08-2018, 06:50 PM
ricknewman ricknewman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Eastern Shore, Va
Posts: 164
Default Gas tank questions

I'm getting ready to pull up the foor in my '78 23cc. It's been sitting for a number of years and the motor is shot. So while I've got the deck up I want to take a good look at the tank. Any chance it's still good? Do I have to remove it to properly inspect?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-08-2018, 07:46 PM
Oldboat Oldboat is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 206
Default Tank

You won’t be able to inspect the bottom and that’s most likely were there would be corrosion . since your in there I would pull it and clean it inside and check sender. Get it all checked and done so you don’t have to go back there
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-08-2018, 07:49 PM
DonV DonV is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Apollo Beach or Islamorada
Posts: 3,488
Send a message via ICQ to DonV
Default

To answer your questions....1. slim chance, if it's original very slim chance, 2. Yes sorry gotta remove it, getting it out that's the tough part.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-08-2018, 07:51 PM
Oldboat Oldboat is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 206
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ricknewman View Post
I'm getting ready to pull up the foor in my '78 23cc. It's been sitting for a number of years and the motor is shot. So while I've got the deck up I want to take a good look at the tank. Any chance it's still good? Do I have to remove it to properly inspect?
There are some post of guys building a wood rack or tripod kinda thing over the tank to lift it out with come along.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-09-2018, 12:26 PM
Vezo, Part II Vezo, Part II is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,026
Default

Unfortunately, opening up the hatch is a whole new world. How it all started for me. Hatch needed to be recored. All fuel lines upgraded to new methanol standards ($10/‘). The “$10/gallon” rule of thumb seems to be of the Baby Boomer era, especially with new tariffs on the aluminum. Go at least .125 thickness over standard 0.90 (should in theory last longer). The foam around tank will reflect where water held and corroded tank worse than where foam was not in contact with aluminum. Cut it out using a sawsall, but be careful determining if there is a floor in the hold. My ‘79 20 had beautiful gel coat finish inside. Be careful. Otherwise, not a bad job. As said, triple your time, money and beer budget. Or BOAT: Bring Out Another Thousand. A pic may help you see how to raise, pitch console out of the way without disconnecting or removing. Hope this helps.

Vezo

Oh and the Coal Tar Epoxy
Attached Images
   
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-09-2018, 12:28 PM
Vezo, Part II Vezo, Part II is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,026
Default

Two best suppliers should be RDS aluminum, Perry, Florida or Sunshine Tanks of South Florida, original builder of Potter era SeaCrafts.

Vezo.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-09-2018, 02:00 PM
Capt Terry Capt Terry is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 573
Default RDS Fuel Tanks

Maybe 12 years ago I ordered a tank from RDS made to my drawing duplicating the original dimensions. Looked good and have been satisfied. However discovered the bottom had some downward bow to it due to weldng distortion. I ground down any high spots where it would sit. But also had to grind the access hatch to avoid interference with the fuel fill elbow. Also put a rubber strip around the hatch to raise it slightly. Maybe should have requested a smaller height dimension. Just FYI
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-09-2018, 09:16 PM
Vezo, Part II Vezo, Part II is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,026
Default

Agreed. Once you send them the measurements, they develop a mechanical drawing, including fitting locations, email it back to confirm specifications. Once you sign in agreement, they’re building it and you’re paying for it same with Sunset, I believe, but they have specific drawings for you to approve.

Vezo.

IIRC...
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-09-2018, 09:41 PM
ricknewman ricknewman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Eastern Shore, Va
Posts: 164
Default

Thanks guys, I trailer my boat so gassing up isn't a big deal and my fishing and playing is all inshore therefore I don't need a big tank.I plan to put a Honda 250 on the back.What's the opinion on tank size keeping in mind that the bigger the more money.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-09-2018, 10:32 PM
DonV DonV is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Apollo Beach or Islamorada
Posts: 3,488
Send a message via ICQ to DonV
Default

MY '78 23'er has a 144 gal tank, the previous owner had a V-6 OMC looper and needed all the gas he could carry for his grouper fishing. If I were to replace my tank I'd go with a 100 gal mounted as far front as possible. My 250 ToHondaSu gets 3.8 to 4 mpg at 28 to 30 mph, so a 100 gal is more than enough.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
All original content © 2003-2013 ClassicSeacraft