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#1
08-03-2015, 08:48 AM
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Adding Support to Gunnels
23' Tsunami - I'd like to add additional support throughout the length of my gunnels without creating any 'hotspots' ( while the topside is attached and the boat upright ).
Has anyone done this or have experience with adding structural support? I'm trying to tighten up this area a bit. I was thinking to either add core ( it's straight up roving/mat ) or, adding more glass 1808 etc in structurally supportive way. No matter what, working upside down seems like a PITA ! The hull, liner, topside joint is thru-bolted already. 
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#2
08-05-2015, 09:02 AM
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I have posed this question awhile back with the same results. Crickets. Seems like unexplored territory. Can anyone recommend another site where I could learn about this type of project. I have searched online with no real luck ( a lot of canoe stuff ).
Thx
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#3
08-05-2015, 01:47 PM
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I built up under the gunnels on a 18' SeaHunt; do you have access to the underside?
Because of the liner, I had to remove the rod holder locker and work from inside. One layer of 1708 stiffened up the hull a lot and Coosa board backing and another layer of 1708 under the rod holders. Boat is very solid when running now. Glassing upside down- wet out the underside of the cap and your fiberglass, I used Epoxy and 1708 and let it get a bit tacky and then laid out the glass. I also taped over with Blue masking tape, and it held fine. You could use a quicker setting hardener and use a support board and brace; cover the boards with plastic tape. Even simpler, you could add a vertical stiffener, like a 1"x2" piece of board, under the cap.
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#4
08-05-2015, 03:20 PM
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I did this for my deck. I made foam hat channels then bonded them in place with thick VE resin. If you look at my bass relief thread, you can see the carbon and glass and foam trapezoid stiffener I made. I'll see if I can link it.
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#5
08-05-2015, 03:28 PM
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#6
08-05-2015, 06:26 PM
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Here is an underside view of the port gunnel looking aft. I want to add support to make it much stronger and structurally sound. The blocks of wood are supports to the hardtop and you can see all has been thru bolted.
As this site is all about taking a classic and making even better - I'm hoping to get sound advice as this is not an area I'm familiar with. I think adding core all around including the curves will tighten it up ( what a PITA !! ) but want some insight. http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1438813600
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#8
08-06-2015, 11:10 AM
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I think if you made a core with skins like mine on a laminating table or atop the cap to achieve the desired compound curvature then you can build them right side up then bond in place?
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#9
08-10-2015, 09:56 AM
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Hmm. Not exactly sure what you;re describing. Are you saying to use the topside as a mold - a female plug ?
Once solid, add wax/ mold release on inside of that female plug, glass in core material, then pop that out, cut and use cored pieces as needed ?
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#10
08-10-2015, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
That way you make a sandwich core that conforms to the curvature of the underside of the cap. But you lay it up right side up. The bottom layer of mat/ 1708 would be the underside of the core. Once that all kicks you could flip it over, cut a 45 degree bevel around the edge and put more glass over the bevel. Then you have something like the inverted trapezoid I made for a "hat channel" stiffener for my deck, except it should follow the underside of your existing cap nicely. Of course you want it to be less than full cap width. Then you sandblast the underside of your cap, wash with acetone and bond the additional core in place like an oreo. Or grilled cheese sandwich. I'd use VE or an epoxy thickened with some cabosil and structural thickener. You will need a bunch of C or bar clamps or welding clamps. I hope this makes sense. I haven't tired this, but it is a variation on the deck support I made.
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