deck - materials, tips

ElBichoMalo · #1 05-23-2011, 08:27 PM

I've been trying to psych myself up to replace my deck. Only had a few soft spots, but upon opening them up, I realized that all of the balsa is soaked. I just can't see finishing a boat, only to have the problem resurface later once fully rigged.

Planning to go with 1/2" marine fir (trying to limit cost, used Coosa for transom, Divinycell for hatches, why not plywood for deck, ha). Does anyone know how many sheets I will need? The hatches and coffin are all done, so just need the remaining deck areas? My boat is not at home, or i would just measure...

Also, how did you guys with experience make templates to cut out the plywood pieces? Luan strips? Cardboard? Anything better?

I am considering breaking it up into some smaller pieces to try to keep warping to a minimum...did anyone figure out a good way to prevent the wood from warping? I'm assuming (and read in some old posts) that the wood can warp after having only one side glassed. If only I could glass both sides at once....hmmm...

Lastly, any tips or techniques to working the areas around the hatches? I guess I would like to keep the lips, cause I certainly can't make new ones. How did you guys handle this?

Thanks guys, Evan.

heynow2203 · #2 05-23-2011, 10:38 PM

you need to plan for deck hight! If you tear out the old deck you might do what I've seen guys do. Cut the top skin of the deck up gut the balsa core then put your plywood on top of the old glass under the balsa. Also it might be a little thinner than 1\2"

ElBichoMalo · #3 05-24-2011, 08:44 AM

Yeah, I have heard that the original is actually 3/8"? Does anyone know if 3/8" marine ply is available? Would it be strong enough? I have no issue with the added height and weight of 1/2", just thinking that will not make it any easier to work out the lips at the hatches!

Anyone got a good post for me to look at? I went through a search, but didn't really find anything with pictures to follow along???

I thought most people just cut the deck out and start fresh....especially since most of my balsa is not rotted out, just wet, so getting it out will be a PITA. I would rather cut thru and replace.

SeaPlusPlus · #4 05-24-2011, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Yeah, I have heard that the original is actually 3/8"? Does anyone know if 3/8" marine ply is available? Would it be strong enough? I have no issue with the added height and weight of 1/2", just thinking that will not make it any easier to work out the lips at the hatches!

Anyone got a good post for me to look at? I went through a search, but didn't really find anything with pictures to follow along???

I thought most people just cut the deck out and start fresh....especially since most of my balsa is not rotted out, just wet, so getting it out will be a PITA. I would rather cut thru and replace.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...=&fpart=2&vc=1

I left bottom skin intact. (2) sheets of 3/8" Douglas Fir Marine Ply. Reused top skin too, tough as nails.

heynow2203 · #5 05-24-2011, 04:57 PM

if you cut out the deck completly you will have to put so support under new deck to come up with the old deck height

bbh57 · #6 05-24-2011, 07:10 PM

On those hatches, Check out what Strick did on his 25 safari rebuild. Slickest Ive seen.

GodsReel · #7 05-24-2011, 10:50 PM

I have done tow 23 cc, both 76, i believe the best way if you are not gonna raise the deck is to skin it and recore, one i did completely and the other i only did the problem areas (i suggest this method) Make sure you do all the area you will remount console and tops and leaning post.3/8 is the actual balsa size but you can get away with 1/2 material. I have used divinicyl,nida core, plywood and pvc board all have worked well. The last time i just tested a lot of areas to see where it needed replacing, If it has not had water penetration it will be fine and will stay fine if properly sealed. If you do cut it out make sure you secure it well and i would tie it back into the cap. Just my 2 cents, have fun but it is well worth it. by the way if you don't have a 23 forget everything you just read and ask someone who has done them.

ElBichoMalo · #8 05-25-2011, 12:41 AM

Really warming up to the idea of leaving the bottom skin or a major portion if it. Guess I will see how it looks coming up. I know some of the spots I pulled up before,although soaking wet, were still extremely well bonded...to the point were I broke the glass trying to peel it off. Sea++...yours looks great, enjoyed checking that out at work this afternoon. Anyone have a link to Strick's thread? Couldn't find it in the search...

floorboy · #9 05-25-2011, 02:14 AM

http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...b=9&o=&fpart=1

McGillicuddy · #10 05-25-2011, 03:11 AM

And here's Strick's 20 SF thread. It's at the top of the Repairs Forum should you need to refer to it another time.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...=&fpart=1&vc=1