Need help with multiple repairs to the hull.....

mitchman · #1 11-15-2010, 03:23 PM

I need some help with repairs to my 1969 20SF after my first full season with the boat. She has been great to me this season as I have run her about 2-4 times a week since May, but now she is due for some work as she has developed some issues that I need some help with. So here goes....

My first issue is that the two stringers on the port side of the boat have cracked at the joint with the transom. I had posted this once before and the advice I received was that I need to do some grinding and lay down some glass matte from the stringer to transom (I know its more complicated, but its the basic idea). The other problem is I can't tell if this is happening on the other side due to that silly live well box...would like to remove it though as its pretty much worthless to me.

The second issue is that the there is fiberglass damage to the inside of the rear port gunnel. This damage was there when I got the boat a year ago and has gotten a little worse since. This spot looks difficult to repair as there is no access to the inside of my gunnels.

My third issue is that the metal rubrail is pulling away from the hull, again on the port side of the boat. There is about a 3-4 foot section which has completely popped off on on the front of the boat. In the rear about a 2 foot section has popped off. The holes are completely stripped and would be required to be filled and redrilled.

My last issue, related to the above, is that the rivets holding the top cap/liner to the hull have popped out in the rear port side of the boat, in the same spot where the rubrail has also popped off. This section is close to 3 foot long and has me VERY concerned as I feel all these issues are related...transom/stringers seperated, inside gunnel damage, rubrail and rivets popping....all on the same side and area of the boat.

I wish I had the time, space and money to do a complete restore as many have done on this site, but I rent, store the boat at work, and don't have a garage. The deck is solid and doesn't need to be replaced. I will take any advice that you guys are willing to give on how I should deal with this issues....

Thanks,
Mitch B.

wildlandjeff · #2 11-16-2010, 12:13 AM

Mitch I would give a good hard look at your transom because if its not sound any work that you do will be a waist of time. When the plywood starts to rot out the torsional forces of the engine is taken up by just the glass that was never meant to carry these loads alone. The stress will show up at the weakest point in your case the rivets holding your cap/liner to the hull. It would be neat to pull a string from between your damage at the stringer and the stress point on your liner (Third picture) and see if it points close to the center of where you unzipped your gunnel. On my Seavette we found damage that pointed to close to the same area only on the starboard side In my case the top and hull were mechanically fasten by though bolting not rivets so the fiberglass took the hit.

Caymanboy · #3 11-16-2010, 12:32 AM

Hard to tell, is that an I/O or O/B? Either way, looks like the transom wants to leave, I would look at it (fix) ASAP.

mitchman · #4 11-16-2010, 10:26 AM

Wildlandjeff, I think I am going to have someone look at my transom before I proceed with repairs to see if its worth it. But I am not really following you with this string method to look for damage. Care to explain a little more what are doing with the string and looking for? thanks.

Cayman boy, boat is a an outboard and actually I think it was the same exact boat that you refurbed a while back.

wildlandjeff · #5 11-16-2010, 07:58 PM

Sorry about that I should have said imaginary sting. All the sting trick does is prove the theory of the direction of the force that did the damage and by knowing this direction allows you to find damage that isn't easily seen. In your case the damage is pretty spectacular most of it is really an easy fix even if time consuming. The gunnel you already have a decent plan for. The damage to the liner can be fixed from just the front side. You will become a contorsionist to fix the joint between the stingers and transom The transom while harder is still pretty much straight forward. With a little beer and a lot of patience or is that a lot of beer and a little patience she can be a great boat again.

mitchman · #6 11-17-2010, 02:01 PM

Thanks for clarification Wildlandjeff, but any suggestions on how to repair the gunnel/hull where the rivets have popped out? This one has me a bit of a loss since the rivet holes are pretty blown out.

Fr. Frank · #7 11-17-2010, 07:01 PM

Epoxy and ss bolts and nylock nuts, or glass it together.
Make it fit right, first.

mitchman · #8 11-20-2010, 01:02 PM

Ok. If I bolt it, what size and length SS bolts would I need? It seems like the lip on the cap isn't very wide. Should I put 5200 or something in between the cap/hull joint as well?

Blue_Heron · #9 11-20-2010, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Ok. If I bolt it, what size and length SS bolts would I need? It seems like the lip on the cap isn't very wide. Should I put 5200 or something in between the cap/hull joint as well?

I would check the transom before you do anything else. Trim the motor up about half way, stand on the anti-ventilation plate, and bounce up and down. If you see any flex in the transom, it probably needs to be recored. the damage to the hull/deck joint looks like it was caused because there's flex there that shouldn't be happening. As Jeff mentioned, if you fix the damage, but not the underlying cause, it will either break again, or find another weak spot to crack or separate.
Dave

seacraftks · #10 11-21-2010, 05:39 PM

The advice on this site is priceless Have fun