1978 SF restoration, my first one..... - Page 9

Blue197320 · #81 11-24-2009, 07:39 PM

pulling ANYTHING thru that 90* is going to be a problem. especially throttle and shift cables. maybe you could think of getting some shop-vac hose and creating a sweep for it. i pull telephone cables at work and when we have a 90* its always in a 9 foot long sweep section and its still hard and we use a truck to pull it.

strick · #82 11-24-2009, 10:39 PM

Quote:

that 90 might cause you some grief, particularly with the shift/throttle cables

I was thinking the same thing when I saw that. You may even have some problems getting the shift cables down thru the 90's at the level of the CC. An option would be to remove all 90's and just leave the long strait tubes in place and leave it at that. On my 20 I did not use rigging tubes as I felt that they would just take up extra space...and space is precious in a small 20sf.

strick

wtenglish · #83 11-25-2009, 03:01 PM

OK. You guys are right the hard 90's will have to go. All good suggestions so I will either find longer radius 90's, use a pair of 45's or scrap them all together. I'm in the gulf now with the family for turkey day so the changes will have to wait until I get back. We took a half day charter with a local guide and when we got to the dock he had a '75 23' Seacraft that had never been restored. He wasn't aware of this website but was interested in checking it out. We caught some nice white and speckled trout, several bull reds that were out of the slot and had to be released! I will post some pics later.

datngrizz · #84 11-25-2009, 03:04 PM

get a PVC electrical sweep at Home Depot or Lowes. I am relatively sure that it will fit std PVC fittings

wtenglish · #85 12-06-2009, 10:40 AM

I still couldn't located any sweeps that would fit the DWV pipe for my rigging tubes so I went with the two 45's. If this doesn't pass inspection then I will have to scrap the tubes altogether.

Since it was locked in place I had to pick up this wire saw to cut the fitting out.

Fitting replacement with two 45's

With the help of a friend I dropped the new fuel tank in place. I used neoprene on either side to protect the tank from the unistrut braces that I will bolt it to.

As recommended I also used the 45's where the tubes will come through the deck under the console. The 45's allowed me to rotate the fittings so that they are offset and get them closer together. The marks you see were from the test fit prior to gluing together.

Blue197320 · #86 12-06-2009, 11:34 AM

the 2 45*'s should work alot better than that 90*.

Capt Chuck · #87 12-06-2009, 12:40 PM

Will

I would run 3/4" FLAT polly "pulling straps" in the rigging tubes NOW. Remember to double the tube length so you can pull from either end multiple times without fishing them again.

#88 12-06-2009, 05:22 PM

Will,

I have some non-stretch 1800 pound test Kevlar cable pulling straps that work very well. I found they worked better that poly rope for me, especially if you have a plug on the end of the wire you are pulling - and no dry rot over the years as poly is subject to do. I left them in place when I rewired. I have access to more of you want some - just let me know.

DonV · #89 12-06-2009, 09:03 PM

Is that the same stuff as "mule tape"?? Mule tape is used for pulling phone cables in conduit. Very flexible and almost impossible to break.

Blue197320 · #90 12-07-2009, 01:53 AM

mule tape will break. trust me. its rated for 1800 pounds. we used it on a cable puller with a force gauge and it broke at 4000 pounds.

i have even used it for a dockline in a pinch. also works well for chum bags. if anyone needs some mule tape let me know the footage and i can send u some.
when u pull wires put another pull string on that wire so u already have a new one in there and dont have to fish it. also dont tie wrap a bundle of wires together. that way u can remove just ONE if u have to.