1977 20ft Master Angler Restoration - Page 8

Seacraft84 · #71 02-23-2011, 02:04 AM

Ripped down a 2x6 to 2x4 and will glass this to the transom for support. The caps bottom edge should come right to the bottom of the 2x4.

Seacraft84 · #72 03-14-2011, 01:32 AM

Finally got some work done on the boat. My dad came by and gave me a hand putting the top cap on and cutting out the new transom. Put the cap back on with 100 thru-bolts.
One set back lately has been some quickfair not setting off good. I know, I said it was some pretty good stuff. At first I had bought the 1.5qt kit and it was fine for the most part, sanded good, and not any soft spots. Then I went and bought the 1.5gal kit to finish the rest of the boat. I weighed it out on a set of scales, mixed it up with a drill paddle, heated my shed up with the heater and let it run for ever, and still had places that were completely soft. Now the outside of it before I started sanding was hard. Then after sanding a couple layers off, soft spots started appearing. I dont know if it was something I did wrong or just bad product. I do know that all the West Sytems 407 and 410 I have been using has not give me a bit of trouble. I ended up using some 410 to fill in the spots I had to grind out.
Just about finished with my wifes shop so I came focus on the boat some more.

newellchunker · #73 03-14-2011, 08:53 PM

Man thats some good work you're putting out there! I can tell that the apple didn't fall far from the tree! How's Mr.Donnie doing anyway? I had his phone number after I bought a downrigger from him a few years ago and lost it. Anyway, I see that your cap was in about the same shape as ours was. Did I read correctly...you used divinycell to recore it correct? If so did you find it local? I think thats the same route I'm gonna go with ours. I wish that we were closer, I'd like to get some first hand experience with you and your dad teaching my son and I! Take care and keep it up. Tell your dad hello...

Seacraft84 · #74 03-15-2011, 01:33 AM

Thanks man. You all can stop by anytime. Dad is doing good. About to retire in alittle over a year. Him and a buddy built two carolina boats last winter and wants to build a bigger one once he retires.
My cap was in good shape other than where the rod holders were and bow section. I kinda messed it up on the top side of the bow. The flat bar went through it a couple times and the glass became flemsy when I took out the wood. Basically I am going to have to grind it down and relay some glass on the top side now. I ended up using 1/2" okoume with four layers of 1708 to recore it with.

newellchunker · #75 03-15-2011, 07:22 AM

I know the feeling about punching through with the flat bar!! We did it in quite a few places also...where we went through I layed up a layer of 1708 and then another layer of 1.5oz mat over it. I hope that will give me a base that we can sand and fair out and get it looking straight again after we recore it!

Seacraft84 · #76 03-23-2011, 01:46 AM

Finally finished up with my wifes shop and she should be open next week. Just finishing up helping my buddy make the lettering for sign that will go on the building.

Finished up the transom tonight. All I need to do now is sand it some and add a layer of 1708 and 1.5oz mat over it and blend in with the rest of the gunnel. Filled in all the holes in the top cap and had a buddy come by and start sanding on the hull. Hopefully by the weekend he can have the whole boat sanded top to bottom. I am starting to run out of time and my buddy needed some extra cash, so it is money well spent.

strick · #77 03-23-2011, 08:19 AM

I like the lay out. Looks nice and clean. Are you going to put a live well in it? Paying someone to help with the sanding is one of the smartest things I have ever done

strick

Seacraft84 · #78 03-23-2011, 12:31 PM

Thanks man. Trying to utilize all the space. I am going to build a coffin box to go in front of the console. Dang coolers are so expensive and I can build the box for about $100.
I have never been a fan of hatchs in the floor and compartments everywhere, especially on these smaller boats.

Retriever · #79 03-23-2011, 10:01 PM

Let me start by saying your work looks great. I also own a 77' 20 ft. MA and I am interested in restoring. The boat has original deck and transom and is starting to show its age. The deck is solid however the transom has hair line cracks that are getting worse as time goes on. This would be my first restoration project(i will have help from my uncle who has built a couple of cape cod 19's) I am just curious on a ball park figuare for a complete restoration. I would want to enclose the transome and bracket the engine. I have a honda 130 4stk. and it weighs just shy of 500lbs. I tried moving the console foward but she still sit's a little low in the stern. Thanks for the help. I will keep you posted when I begin the project.!

Seacraft84 · #80 03-24-2011, 01:52 AM

Thanks man.

These are all guess prices for new stuff. Now some things I bought used. And some things I was able to get discounts on.
This does not reflect what I have in my restore.

Bracket: $500-$2500 shipping is expensive
Okoume Wood: $500 $75/sheet
Supplies (cloth,resin,gloves,tape,cabosil....): $2000-$4000
Tank: $300-$1000 shipping is expensive
New parts(shifter cables,screws,cleats...): $1000-$$$$$$
Labor: Priceless
Plus last spring I put on $2000 worth of curtains and spray hood.
It is not cheap to restore these boats. Favors, buddys with hookups and so on really help out doing this type of stuff.

If you need any help just ask. Most pics on here will just about walk you through what your boat looks like internally. I have about 200 pics so far, so if you need any more detailed ones let me know.

BTW I would raise the floor at least 4" if you want it to selfbail, with that motor on it. I put a 150hp yamaha 4stroke on at the end of the season. It weighs 475lbs. I marked the water line with minimal gear and fuel, and then with full fuel and gear and took an "educated guess" where the floor needed to be. Mine is a total of 5". I now have 20" from the floor to the top of the cap. That is what the SF's are factory.