21 Hull #136...Restoration...Started

[65Bowrider]

Very nice, clean work!
How does the Tuff-Stuff compare to Divinycell? Weight,cost?
Also curious as to how 'flexible' it is in making a crown...
Could you have made a bigger crown if you wanted?
Nice welcome mat too!

[Islandtrader]

Finally got 95% of the front deck done. Just a little more fairing and on to the front cap rails and dash.

The first 3 pictures show how I used strips of wood and dry wall screw to hold the deck in alignment with the seams. Sand bags just would not hold the crown down...so this seemed like the easiest way.
I got tired of mixing epoxy and cabosil together so I bought a product from Systems 3 called. Gelmagic. It is an epoxy that is premixed with the solids. All you have to do is mix the resin and hardener and the stuff trowels out perfect. I will never mix cabosil again for a big job.

After removing the fasteners I then used epoxy and cabosil (small job) and filled the seams. Then covered the seams with fiberglass tape.

After a 1/2 gallon of QF3 and a lot of sanding by hand, it is ready. I have every sander known to man, and yet I still like to block the areas by hand. I guess that hark ens back to my street rod days when there were more rounded surfaces.
Now I will work on the cap rail and dash. Then continue towards the transom.

Thats it for now!

Mechanical fasteners Left,Center, Right.






Seams filled and taped.





First coats of QF3 working forward and center.





You can see the crown.



That enough to bore you all.

[Capt Chuck]

Very Nice Terry! Keep the pics coming.
I drool on my keyboard every time I see your SeaCraft

[CaptLloyd]

Terry,

Lookin Good

I marvel at your ingenuity

Lloyd

[Islandtrader]

Moving along... I got the dash filled and faired out.

The Original Dash Panel looks good, so I plan on using the SS panel and insert new gauges.

Just basic work here. I did not want to fill from the back of the dash because the angle was such, that cabosil running out would be a problem.

I just laid on layer of 1708 on the back side to close off the holes. Made some plywood plugs for the front, and mixed up a bunch of epoxy and cabosil, and start laying in.

After that was dry I started using Quick Fair to get every thing smooth. Used dykem to find the low spots.

Next week on to the transom.

Original Dash Set Up



Dash Stripped.



Glass Back of dash.



Wood Plugs.



Dykem the dash.



Low spots.



Smooth Dash.



New panel Original Gauges.



Had enough

[Islandtrader]

Since the last post I got a little more done. With out trying to bore everyone, lets just say I have not found any new techniques. I am using the tried and true methods that I have learned here on the sight.

This post is mainly on the transom area, and how it was done.

With out going into the pros and cons of why I chose wood for the transom, lets just say the last transom lasted 40 years (wood). If this one lasts that long I will be way over a 100. However I am using synthetics in other parts of the boat.

That being said, I did pre-soak the ply. Then I put one layer of 1708 on the front, in between, and on the back side.

That puppy weighed in at 115#.

After it was all installed I fillet the edges and tabbed the transom with 3 layers of 1708. Added some limber holes and painted the area with one coat of Tile Clad HS.





Transom Pattern, glass and clamping of transom pieces together.







Cutting the Cap off Per Strick. Thanks for this piece of advice.





My son in law. With this thing weighing in at 115# no way I could muscle it in alone.







After tabbing I used the Lost Mold process recommended by Mr. Moesly, to Strengthen a few stringers, where the old glass was good but pulling away from the wood stringer. It works the stringers don't even move now.





Also added some limber holes. Picked up a pencil technique from bowrider. Then cut the ends off and painted.





Painted the inside of the transom with Tile Clad. One coat. No need to do more right now till I see what will be covered. Also patched the transom holes and rough faired out the transom.





Finally addressed the rear cap. It had some soft wood. I used all my left over pieces of coosa,and glassed over and painted.













Next step will be putting in the tank floor.

Thats it from the island.

[strick]

Nice work on the transom and removing the cap. It's much easier to glass the cap back in place then to fair out the entire outside of the transom.

I noticed that you put a layer of glass on the backside of the dash and then used wood plugs to fill up the holes and then puttied over that? If that is the case then you will get cracking around were the holes were filled over time. The correct method is to grind a bevel around each hole and then glass up to the edge of the bevel. It's Ok to use the dowels as fillers so to speak however you need some glass over them for strength. Speaking from experience

strick

[Snookerd]

Once again, great job Terry. It's pretty cool that the current 21's getting rebuilt are being done to the high standards that Carl put in them originally!

[Islandtrader]

Strick...Thanks for the tip. I will be sure to glass over next time.

I know it is hard to see on the low resolution pictures, however each hole in the dash was beveled including the plugs. I then filled the holes with cabsol mixture of epoxy. Then I started with the quick fair. Hopefully this will stave off the future cracks.

Snooker...we keep trying

[strick]

Terry whats this "Lost Mold process" you are talking about? Dont be holding out on us California boys Also were are you getting your coosa....I may be needing some soon.

strick