Forward bulkhead - Page 4

chriselk · #31 06-03-2015, 11:52 AM

We are putting in a transom bait well, not a large one. We made plywood forms for bending the foam. If you recall, we have about a 13 degree angle, so we had to make the bottom form smaller front to back dimension, but the same curve as the top.

We scored the foam vertically on the corners where we wanted to bend about 2/3rds thru. At this stage you gotta be careful not to break. We screwed down the foam and glass the inside and out with two layers of 17 oz. Then we could remove it and it was solid. Then we cut the top and bottom from the plywood foams, tabbed, etc. Now just a lot of finish work. Note, we did round the back corners as we did not want to kill the pogies. The later pictures you can see Richard dry fitting the baitwell along the transom top, which he matched.

chriselk · #32 06-03-2015, 11:59 AM

Some misc stuff.

Forward locker we are reusing. We previously reinforced the forward tray/locker that held the aux tank. We put a piece of foam on the bottom and faired it.

Since the deep V of the seacraft seems to collect quite bit of water forward, UNDER the forward locker, we installed a low profile bilge pump under it. The only problem is that there is no access to pump, wiring hose.

Solution. put a access hatch in the bottom. We cut out a panel just above the pump, large enough to install the pump, get to hose etc. We ran wire up the outside of the locker and made another cut out and mounted a electrical terminal block on the forward part of the fuel bulkhead. Thus, we can replace the pump by just swapping out the pump, reconnecting the hose and running the wires about 2 feet to the electrical terminal block. A round deck hatch of course covers the hole.

The last photos shows the routing of the bilge hose out the port side, using the track the old aux. fuel tank. Wired with three way wire of course to helm. We are not using that funky corregated bilge hose. We ordered reinforced 1 1/8 labeled as bilge hose. Did not wish to try and change that hose with deck on. Good stuff.

chriselk · #33 06-03-2015, 08:42 PM

First picture is of insulated in floor fish box. Reminder to self, drill drain hole...

Second of bilge area with landing pads for bilge pumps and holes for bracket.

chriselk · #34 06-03-2015, 08:57 PM

The deck in this picture is screwed down to its final resting place, temporarily. The dark edging on the side is blue tape on what will be the gutter and to prevent epoxy from glueing down the deck prematurely. Richard had epoxied the half inch strip of coosa to finish off hexcell core. He used wedges to perfectly make the gap even. The epoxy was really to just tack the piece in place. Tomorrow we will remove the deck, finish filling in the epoxy and then we will glass the entire edge to make it solid.

FAS · #35 06-06-2015, 06:10 AM

Number One Job !moovin right ahead, glad to it...

JohnC · #36 06-06-2015, 07:32 AM

Looking good! I am planning a NidaCore deck with Coosa reinforcements on mine. I didn't think of putting the console and leaning post reinforcement the deck layup - I like your Idea better! It looks like you just routed out the honeycomb deck deep enough to lay the Coosa in, is that right? Did you bed it in with Cabosil or something before laying the skin on? I would love to know.
I also like that you kept the cap on to hold everything straight while you did the deck and stringer work. I was going to remove mine but if there is enough room to work around the cap I guess it's a good idea to leave it in. Very nice work. It doesn't look like there is anything left that could get waterlogged - ever!

chriselk · #37 06-07-2015, 09:34 AM

Yes we routed the honeycomb and then cabo ed the coosa in. I would suggest you take a saw and cut the perimeter first on the line. The honeycomb makes going straignt with a router difficult. Not a big deal as you are going to fill in anyway. Set the saw/router to the height of coosa. It does not hurt to overglass in the coosa on the back side. I am a big believer in mulitple 17 oz glass layers as opposed to 1708. Three 17oz stronger than two 1708 and lighter too.

You probably dont need reinforcement for the console or leaning post. The T top probably does need it. We are putting T nuts under the deck glued into the coosa. I have found out the hard way with T nuts. Epoxy them in with the screws and the T top while they set. That way the angle is perfect because you cannot get to them later. Also they wont push out if the angle is not perfect.

Said in other words. We will put the T top on top, screw holes the size of the screws. Flip the deck over and drill a slightly larger hole for T nuts (may just bang them in), epoxy the T nuts in with slow cure epoxy/cabo (keeping epoxy off the threads if possible). Flip it over again and place the T top back on. Screw the T top down and allow epoxy to set.
Remove T top for installation of course.

peterb · #38 06-07-2015, 12:18 PM

Chris,

I owned that particular boat from Feb 2007 through May 2010. It had twin 2001 200 HP OX66's on her. The previous owner had the deck rebuilt by Young Brothers in Southern NJ in the 2001/2002 timeframe I believe.

Before owning that boat I had a 1978 23' SeaCraft with twin 150 HP SWS's.

While I liked the layout out (enclosed transom) of the 2nd sled better I always felt that the first one rode better (the one without the flotation bracket).

Best of luck with the rebuild.

Peter

JohnC · #39 06-09-2015, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chriselk

Yes we routed the honeycomb and then cabo ed the coosa in. I would suggest you take a saw and cut the perimeter first on the line. The honeycomb makes going straignt with a router difficult. Not a big deal as you are going to fill in anyway. Set the saw/router to the height of coosa. It does not hurt to overglass in the coosa on the back side. I am a big believer in mulitple 17 oz glass layers as opposed to 1708. Three 17oz stronger than two 1708 and lighter too.

You probably dont need reinforcement for the console or leaning post. The T top probably does need it. We are putting T nuts under the deck glued into the coosa. I have found out the hard way with T nuts. Epoxy them in with the screws and the T top while they set. That way the angle is perfect because you cannot get to them later. Also they wont push out if the angle is not perfect.

Said in other words. We will put the T top on top, screw holes the size of the screws. Flip the deck over and drill a slightly larger hole for T nuts (may just bang them in), epoxy the T nuts in with slow cure epoxy/cabo (keeping epoxy off the threads if possible). Flip it over again and place the T top back on. Screw the T top down and allow epoxy to set.
Remove T top for installation of course.

Thanks for the info. I will cut out with a saw and use the T-nuts over the box stringers too, I should be able to thru-bolt the console between the stringers. My top will mount to the console and not the deck so that's where I need the strength. I always wondered how much lift is generated trailering at highway speed with a t-top - I bet its a bunch! I may skip the reinforcement on the leaning post, I'll just see how it goes when I am there.
Thanks!

chriselk · #40 06-12-2015, 01:24 PM

Well, we temporarily screwed the deck in place and put one layer of 17 oz on the top.

Now we wanted to flip it and fix the hull.

We put some reinforcements on the gunnels first.

To flip it, we screwed 4 sheets of plywood together overlapping 90 degrees. Then we cut an 8 foot circle. We reinforced with 2 2 x 6's. If you recall, we had already test mounted the bracket on the transom and had half in holes going thru. We drilled one more at the very top.

We thru bolted the "circle of death" to the transom. One thing to note that circle weighs about 200 lbs and could crush someone. To screw it on the transom with about 5 inches of clearance, we jacked the trailer up. Then when we hooked it up it would not scrap.

We found that to flip it, it was best if we ran the rope amidships.