Trailer Help needed - Bearings

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by CoreyTrx

The cotter pin is missing

Good eyes CoreyTrx, I missed that!

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by mnwnvc

I forgot to say I also carry a new hub with bearings and seals pre greased just in case things go south. It is insurance you hope you never use.

I have a little blue tackle box I carry in my truck too, it has both common bearing sets, seals, grease,hubs w/studs & nuts and basic tools that fit any of my boat trailers, utility or car haulers in case of a problem. I don't pull with out it!

I stop on the side of the road & fix it real quick (usually 30 minutes or less) and then back on the road to the fishing grounds...

After changing two or three you get good at it. My trailers are usually good to go but the ones I pick up buying and selling usually are crap and in bad shape so I have had to do it a few times.

[77SceptreOB]

Originally Posted by CoreyTrx

The cotter pin is missing

Ding, Ding, Ding....We have a winner!!!

I did install the cotter pin though, just after that picture was taken...LOL!

Jim

[DonV]

Well Jim there is no doubt you installed the cotter pin in my book, because if you hadn't there would have been no...."clicking off mile after mile without problem on my way home with the boat and trailer behind me" Good job!!

[Blue_Heron]

Originally Posted by 77SceptreOB

Can anybody see/guess if anything looks missing or problems? Hint: look close.

Jim,
I don't like the way that brake line overlaps the trailer frame. It may not apply to yours, but the instructions for my trailer brakes showed the caliper mounted behind the rotor, not above it. That's why the calipers have two bleed ports, so you can bleed from the one on top. If you rotate your mounting bracket counter-clockwise to the next set of holes, it might eliminate the brake line/frame conflict.
Dave

[DonV]

Good call Dave!! 90 degrees counter clockwise is what I would be doing!! I'm thinking a ten minute job!

[77SceptreOB]

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

Jim,
I don't like the way that brake line overlaps the trailer frame. It may not apply to yours, but the instructions for my trailer brakes showed the caliper mounted behind the rotor, not above it. That's why the calipers have two bleed ports, so you can bleed from the one on top. If you rotate your mounting bracket counter-clockwise to the next set of holes, it might eliminate the brake line/frame conflict.


Dave

Very good call Dave!! I thought it was kinda funny the way it was rigged. I put it back the same way I found it. But, come to think of it when I bought the trailer used the PO told me the front axle was relatively new. I'll bet who ever installed the replacement axle installed it incorrectly. And I'll bet it doesn't look like that from the factory. I'm going to check on that tomorrow. The trailers are built right here in my hometown. I'll get to the bottom of this. Thanks again for your insight on this. It was right there in front of my face and I didn't put two and two together. Another set of eyes and an extra brain sure helps out!! Can I bleed the brakes okay in the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position?

Jim

[htillman]

I installed a set as pictured. They would not work correctly because they could not be bleed properly. Once rotated worked great

[77SceptreOB]

The more I think about it, I'm not sure I can mount the caliper at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock and still be able to bleed the lines. Check out where the valves are in the picture below...the caliper might have to stay where it is?? The caliper appears to have two pistons

[Bushwacker]

Dave's comments would apply to a single piston caliper (the most common type), but your double piston type (which I think is pretty rare) is mounted correctly. You won't be able to bleed all the air out of the cylinders if you mounted it on the side. Also, if you could rotate that brake line elbow 90 degrees in either direction, you might be able to run the brake line underneath the trailer frame. The tight bend in that brake line really isn't conducive to long life!

BTW, it's worth spending a few bucks more on silicone brake fluid for the boat trailer system. Conventional DOT 3 fluid absorbs moisture like a sponge, which can be a problem in high humidity areas like S. Fl. (BMW recommends flushing conventional DOT 3 fluid every 2 years to eliminate corrosion problems in the hydraulic system!) However using silicone fluid will totally eliminate rust build up inside the calipers and master cylinder. I've used it for years in older vehicles, but it's not approved for use in most ABS systems with hydraulic pumps, I believe due to a difference in compressibility characteristics.