Outboard Options for Classic 20

[uncleboo]

Sweet!! Hope it doen't convert too many of your sailors!!

[Windrider]

Well, this boat is flashy enough to be "Elvis," but we think "Necessary Evil" is a fun and amusing name for this boat. We once had an old battleship of a lesson sailboat named "Student Driver" so this is par for the course for us. Only our Shields get traditional ladies names.

Both deck and hull have been painted with Awl Grip, same as we did for our Shields. Even used the same non-skid method, which we are now thinking is going to result in some lost skin for folks on this boat until it wears in a bit. It is really "grippy" right now (i.e. it is about like sitting on a rasp).

Sad to say, it is too late, Uncle Boo. The sailing students are just about foaming at the mouth thinking about wakeboarding behind Evil this summer. There are also a record number of sailing students in the SCUBA classes this semester, so they are looking forward to some summer diving at Catalina Island. That means I really HAVE to find a good swim step for this boat. What sort is traditionally used on Seacrafts? I might be able to find a used one of those full stern teak ones if it isn't too hard to fit.

[Bushwacker]

. . . That means I really HAVE to find a good swim step for this boat. What sort is traditionally used on Seacrafts? I might be able to find a used one of those full stern teak ones if it isn't too hard to fit.

Most folks with outboards prefer the half(assed?) platforms so you don't have to worry about interference with the motor. It's pretty easy to make one like this one that I had before I repowered:





I made it from a 4' piece of 1" OD SS tubing; bent it into U shape with a conduit bender. The teak planks were about 2-2.5" wide x 1" thick, spaced about 1" apart and mounted with 1/4-20 SS machine screws that were countersunk into the planks and covered with teak plugs. You'll need a drill press to drill holes in the tubing for the plank mount screws. Used the same SS fittings you'd use on a Bimini top to mount it. Works best if mounted right at the water line so it's awash when lowered. It's fairly light and easily removable. With one 8' length of tubing, you could make one for each side. If you want a SERIOUS swim platform, you need one like this on my friends old SeaCraft 21, the "Unohu"!



BTW, I think you made a good choice with the 90 E-Tec for all the towing you'll be doing. Those motors run in an extremely lean stratified charge mode below 2000 rpm, so they burn even less fuel than a 4-stroke or ANY other motor when you're running at hull speed. My V-6 only burns about 0.5 gal/hr @ 5 mph, and that I-3 90 hp is exactly 1/2 of the V-6! There really is no break-in required for those motors because the engine computer keeps track of time @ rpm, and it feeds extra oil to the motor until you accumulate something like 5 hrs above 2500 rpm. If you have any other questions on the motor, go to this owners forum. It's run by some very knowledgeable technicians. I would suggest using ONLY the XD-100 full synthetic oil right from the start. It burns cleaner and you'll use less oil if you have the dealer reset the computer for it. BRP says you don't ever have to do a periodic decarb to keep the rings clean, as is required on most 2-strokes, if you use XD-100. If the boat still seems a little stern heavy, you may also want to consider running a 4-blade prop. The extra blade provides more stern lift and made a dramatic improvement in low speed planing and acceleration on my boat. Good luck with the new rig!

[Windrider]

Thanks for the info on the swim steps, Bushwacker. The other thread on dive ladders was also useful. We'll see what we can come up with.

"Evil" is finally going to the Evinrude dealer this week to have the E-Tec installed! I am looking forward to posting how she performs with the new outboard.

I am glad to know that someone agrees with our choice of the E-Tec. Bushwacker, your statements about the E-Tec were indeed the selling points that caused us to choose it. Both the Seacraft and our Whaler spend an awful lot of their time just idling or moving at slow speeds. We needed a motor that was efficient doing that. The Yamaha was very unhappy about that sort of abuse and was always gunking up somewhere. We'll see if the new Merc we got for the Whaler does as well as the E-Tec with this kind of use, since they are both new and will be put in use at the same time.

This is what the welding shop on campus came up with to replace the corroded aluminum edging around the transom cut-out. They didn't have the equipment necessary to do that little radius the original had, so they just welded some rod to the flat SS to protect that edge. Not very pretty, but it should work.

[Fr. Frank]

This is what the welding shop on campus came up with to replace the corroded aluminum edging around the transom cut-out. They didn't have the equipment necessary to do that little radius the original had, so they just welded some rod to the flat SS to protect that edge. Not very pretty, but it should work.

That'll work.

[Bushwacker]

That's some pretty fancy SS trim your shop came up with! Should hold up better than the original aluminum extrusion.

Hopefully they will install a good water separating filter like a Racor with a bowl on it so you can check it for water. The newer motors have a filter on the motor with a water sensor that will provide a warning on the I-Command gage, but I'd rather catch the water before it gets to the motor! That gage will also display water temperature. These motors run pretty warm at low speed, up in the 150-160F range, for good combustion and to help prevent plug fouling. Salt deposits start to form at about 165F so they push it pretty close. Temps drop to about 145F over 3500 rpm.

I would definitely use Marine Formula Stabil, Startron or the like ALL THE TIME, as today's gas will start to deteriorate pretty quickly otherwise. You might consider running a 4B prop on that rig, as it will provide extra blade area for more low speed thrust for towing or planing with a heavy load. The extra blade will also provide more stern lift to help you stay on plane better at lower speeds. My old "115" was only about 90 hp at the prop, and that new E-Tec is probably a little stronger than that, as BRP appears to be sandbagging on the power ratings. A 13 3/4" dia. x 15" pitch 3B SST was the perfect prop for it with the 2:1 gear ratio; if the new 90's have a similar gear ratio, a prop of about that size should be a good starting point for your rig. You probably won't run over 32-34 mph, so 15" pitch should be about right. With a 4B prop you'll want less diameter, maybe something in the 13 - 13.5" range, but the dealer should have several different props you can try. Good luck with the new motor! Let us know how it works out!

[gofastsandman]

When I was a young toddler, Papa won a Sunfish in a raffle. My sister said I loved it, but I don`t remember it. I think Mom thought one of us would drown and had him sell it.

When I was 9, I started crewing for my sister on a Beetle Cat, which is not a cat at all. It does resemble a beetle when turtled. The Committee boat was not happy with me as I was not in the race.

About ten years ago my sister invited me up to a marl bottomed lake north of Ann Arbor. Looked just like the Keys.
They had an old Hobie and I invited her to the good old days. I launched us over the mast coming downwind before the dock. Jibe Ho!

Cheers
GFS

[Fr. Frank]

... I launched us over the mast coming downwind before the dock. Jibe Ho!

Cheers
GFS

That brought back memories and made me laugh. The first time I solo'd an 18' Hobie I was 15 years old and off Singer Island I pitch-poled it twice in the first 20 minutes. 2nd time I landed astride the mast. All I could do was hang on and moan for the next 20 minutes.

[Windrider]

Yowsa!

[Bushwacker]

Lookin' good! When is the maiden voyage?! When do we get a performance report?! Let us know how you like that E-TEC!