#321
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Re: Here We Go Again
Things have been going turtle speed on this little boat. The kids are on summer break so I've been trying to spend some quality time with them taking them places and doing things together on the weekends.
Early Sunday morning while everyone was still asleep I managed to shoot some awlgrip primer on the hull. I sprayed the bottom, sides and top cap. The inside of the hull is not ready for primer yet. This was a very light coat of primer so it will help me to see the blemishes that still need to be faired and sanded. Fresh Awlgrip primer: Quick fair and block sanded with 220: The bottom is almost ready for paint however the top sides still have a bit more fairing and sanding left to do. Hopefully I'll get to it this week. I picked up a gantry crane from Harbor freight the other day and decided to try it out. My brother helped me set it up this past weekend. He works for a crane company and builds these things on a much larger scale out in the field. We modified it slightly making it 4 inches wider so I will be able to fit the boat trailer under it. where I stand as of now. strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#322
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Re: Here We Go Again
Chuck, for some reason none of your photos are showing up. is anyone else hsving a problem?
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#323
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Re: Here We Go Again
Fine on this side of the country.
Nice work Strick.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#324
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Re: Here We Go Again
Thanks Brian. Rhett, the server was down for about 24 hours and I don't know why but I guess they got it figured out.
Still trying to get power to the shop. My friend loaned me his trencher a couple weeks ago. There are two long runs with a junction box connecting the two. The first run starts at the corner of the fence closest the house were I have a junction box that feeds power to the irrigation control system. It makes a hard right and beelines for the opposite side of the property to another junction box. From there it turns strait for the shop The wire is gonna cost a small fortune just to get to the shop. Now for the boat: More fairing and block sanding. Another coat of Awlgrip 545 and guide coat applied; The bottom is getting closer to paint Another block sanding and washed off with water. At this point it seems like Never Never Land The glorious day finally arrived when I got to shoot a little primer on the inside of the hull There are lots of little pinholes in the panels. I think we may have got a little too aggressive in our earlier sanding and sanded thru the primer in a few spots. Never fear. We have System 3 Quick fair. I should have primed the transom cap when I made the part because that baby was loaded with pin holes Stay tuned for next weeks episode entitled "More fairing and sanding" strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#325
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Re: Here We Go Again
Strick, Lookin' Good !!
Those dad gum pin holes have a bad habit of coming back I know what you are up against...... BTW, The 140 ft. run from my house to the barn would have been over a $1800. with the 4-1/0 copper wires I ran to the service. We were able to salvage enough to do the job when the old warehouse came down. Good luck and keep up the good work. Ken Oh yeah, I saw that Harbor had them on sale for I think was $560, not a bad price if that is the one.
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See ya, Ken © |
#326
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Re: Here We Go Again
Can you run the service wiring in alum Chuck?
I don't have a clue what Ca. codes would be, but I do know there are a bunch of wacko's out there. How many coat's of 545 did you start with? Did you thin it? Awlgrip calls for T0006 thinner to reduce it. don't waste your money and don't thin it. It will spray fine. I start with 4 coats. |
#327
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Re: Here We Go Again
Boat's lookin great. let me know if you need a hand pullin wire. be more than glad to help.
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#328
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Re: Here We Go Again
That is an amazing job you have going on there.Im a newbe on all this with fiberglass but have some skills and would like to do a little remodelation to my 19 foot bow rider SC and turn it to a center console and you have inspired me after lurking for a while around your thread and learning a bit or two.I have a couple of questions and if its possible for you or the other members of the site to clear some doubts I have.First one is that I saw on the thread that the core on the covers or doors for the fish box and the other compartments were cut into small squares and I dont understand the reason for this isnt it supose to be stronger if the core is in one piece? The other question is if a fiberglass bracket is strong enough to hold a big outboard? reason for asking this question is because I have a friend that has a boat with two 150 rudes on an alluminum bracket and after some years of rough seas and punishment the bracket gave off and one of the engines fell in the water so Im thinking, an alluminum bracket is suposed to be stronger than glass,isnt it? Ill apressiate any coment from you guys and this site is great you people do some great jobs, I have to take my hat off and give my respects. Thanks again.
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#329
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Re: Here We Go Again
Ken- you are right about the pin holes.... very irritating..... you fill one and five more show up for the funeral. Are you talking about the gantry crane at harbor freight for $560? That sounds about right I got it on sale last month for $539. Very well built it seems.
Bobby- I'll check on the aluminum tomorrow. I kinda doubt it though. What I did with the primer was shoot a light coat on first so I could see the areas that needed to sanded more or built up more. After the fairing and sanding I shot another heavier coat on and then sanded and faired a little more. The outside of the boat is getting close to being straight. what I will probably do is put two more heavy coats on it next before I paint. I have a question for you as I was going to e-mail you but I'll bring it up now. I was reading the awlgrip manual and they talk about the last coat of primer and painting over it without sanding it first. I cant remember what I did last time but I was under the impression that the primer should be sanded with 220 prior to paint? yes I did thin it and you are right in that it really don't need to be thinned much if any at all. I've been having some difficulty with my two compressors. The little one I have cant keep up the with the spray gun so it drops pressure while spraying. I have cords strung out from the house to the shop and the voltage drop wont allow me to run the bigger compressor. I'll have to figure something out before I try to paint. Rhett- I got the wire covered but we need to go fishing soon before all the albacore head up north! tito- welcome to the site and thanks. Read back thru the project for the answer as to the squares. The topic was discussed already. As for the bracket a properly built fiberglass bracket will be as strong or stronger then the aluminum. There are no welds to break.
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#330
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Re: Here We Go Again
Quote:
Don't make a mistake the 1st time I asked and was VERY clear as to the fact that I was "Hand Blocking" the hull and said it several times. The guy told me 220gt and then when everything was done he said "Oh I thought you were DAing it?" Aggg! It will have micro scratches showing in the paint if you do. A DA erases it's own scratches. tito To add to what Chuck said about the alum bracket. If the boat sat in the water and had bottom paint. It must be treated with a bottom paint that is designed for a alum boat. To not do this can be very BAD. It will eat the alum,as the bottom coat has copper in it. Jumping waves in a boat may look cool in pix's but it sure does put extreme stress and strain on things. A alum bracket should not crack, but there are plenty of subject's that have. |
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