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#21
07-19-2016, 08:40 PM
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I like the torsion axles as well, but it sounds like you want to keep it simple. Here's one more.https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Sus...SP-169275.html
It looks like the rest of the hardware, except for a u-bolt or two are ok. I would add to launch the boat if you have some place to dock will make job way easier if you had not considered it. Looks like there are spacers missing on rear axle. 
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#22
07-19-2016, 08:55 PM
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roller trailer...
roller trailers,no need to get the trailer wet - backwheels will only touch the water... torsion axles have problems too...
__________________
do not let common sense get in your way
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#23
07-19-2016, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
They are far smarter than I. Trailer. 1974. Hmmm. Full rollers last a long time. They really tried to help me understand this simple concept.
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#26
07-20-2016, 07:56 AM
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Put a few wire ties around em and call it good. Actually, it should be a fairly easy trip for you along the coast. I might just be overly cautious after years ago, breaking down at 2am in Miami or almost loosing a wheel on the channel 2 bridge.
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#28
07-20-2016, 09:27 AM
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Ditto on the torsion axels!!!
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#29
07-20-2016, 11:44 AM
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Trailer Tip
Tom-
I'd say the most likely trailer failure on the road would be a tire or wheel bearing. I also carry a spare hub as you mentioned. And it will probably get you home. However, a new seal can quickly leak due to corrosion on the trailer spindle. Google Bearing Buddy Spindle Repair Kit to see a stainless steel ring to repair a corroded spindle- however because of its larger outer diameter it uses s special Seal from Bearing Buddy. Another tip- with your tandem axle trailer, roll one wheel up on a thick piece of wood to remove the bad wheel.
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#30
07-20-2016, 12:09 PM
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If you don't want to move the mounts on each end you will not be able to run a larger spring pack. You might be able to gain some on each side but not much. the shackles will give a little but you don't want them to be jamming into the center bracket. Torsion axels are the best way to go if yo want to cough up the money for them. You would have to mount pads to the bottom of the channel to bolt them up on. the edge of the channel may work but it would be better with a landing pad to give them a wider resting place. I have 3 different magic tilt trailer about the same as the one you have. All galvanized dipped after welded solid. One has the slider that Don V mentioned which makes the axel position adjustable. Yours is straight welded and is non adjustable. The only way you can go wider is to cut the brackets on each end off and re-weld them or buy two new ones and add them past the ones you have now. You really don't want to do that even if you wanted to weld them up because this would spread your axel to axel center line and then your wheels will not be centered into your fenders. Best thing is to buy the same size springs you have now. You can get them in galvanized in the correct matching length you just will have to shop around to find them. One other thing you can do to add capacity is to add leafs to the new ones. You can take single leafs and stack them to the three that are on the pack you buy. if you do the 3 leafs and realize you need more just add the extra leafs in the original set. You may need a longer center bolt but you can change it out to a longer one. Yours really don't look that bad. And looking at them you only have 2 arched leafs. The bottom one looks like just an helper spacing it up. If here is no arch to it a new true 3 leaf spring with 3 full arched springs would be slightly better. I have a trailer right now with one spring that has an eye broke off and I pulled it over and hour like that with a seafari 20 on it after purchase. I plan on changing out all 4 when I get a chance. You decide to chance yours out, the middle leaf may be in nice enough shape to slap some black paint on it and add it to the new ones for some extra weight. The top one with the eyes are the ones that fail, just look good around the back side of the eye and make sure it looks good there. If they fail that's where the normally break. On the road bearings are the main thing to fail but instead of changing just them its better to do the hub set. With hub and bearing kit prices so cheep it is easier to swap them out vs changing the races out. You would need a press or would have to beating them out and back in. Just better to get the hub with the races already installed. Keep your old ones for spares.
__________________
Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf
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