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  #21  
Old 02-26-2015, 02:51 PM
gtrkev gtrkev is offline
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Switching the engines. 225 Zuke 25", with a 250 Zuke 30". Will have to change out the lower units.
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  #22  
Old 02-26-2015, 02:56 PM
gtrkev gtrkev is offline
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The 225 is on the SeaCraft now. I hope it pushes it fast enough. I know it was plenty fast with the 250. But, the 225 only has 100 hours on it. And it used the push the Mako plenty fast, about 41 mph. I've heard 250 to 225 should be a 2 to 4 mph difference top end. And the 250 used to push the SeaCraft about 44mph. If I can break 40 mph, that'll be fine with me. We'll see!
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  #23  
Old 02-26-2015, 03:30 PM
DonV DonV is offline
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Sweet, just wondering while you are at this point of the rebuild if you would be able to move the trim tabs to the outside chine?
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  #24  
Old 02-28-2015, 12:04 PM
gtrkev gtrkev is offline
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Thanks for the thought. They don't seem to bother me where they are. I guess they would work better on the outside chine. On my Mako, you can see they are really in the center and I know that is not optimal. But on the SeaCraft, I haven't really thought about it. I do plan to put a swim platform in the back. So, I may re-arrange things to get it to all fit back there. Haven't seem many posts about having trim tabs on the outside, of course, I wasn't really looking. I would prefer not to add extra holes in the transom, unless I really need to. Would it be worth it? What are the benefits? Does it make a big difference?
And... if you notice, the wiring goes over transom, not through it. I asked the original owner why he did it that way? Less holes in the transom? He said, "Exactly". He was a commercial fisherman, and you'll notice the bilge thru-hull was put at the top, the air intake vents were removed, too. As few holes as possible at or near the waterline. That was the original reasoning. But your right, now's the time if I'm gonna do it.
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  #25  
Old 03-11-2015, 11:43 AM
gtrkev gtrkev is offline
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Ok, subfloor being cut to fit the new plastic tank.
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  #26  
Old 03-11-2015, 01:11 PM
gtrkev gtrkev is offline
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Wait a minute, that looked like wood. Covered in fiberglass, but still, it's wood. Rip it all out... And start over. Better to do it right while the tank is out, right? More money, more time, but done right is the way to go.
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  #27  
Old 03-11-2015, 08:33 PM
gtrkev gtrkev is offline
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So here's the new tank. And some better core materials than wood, I hope, to support it. The last tank had water trapped under it for a few years, not a friendly environment for wood. I'm gonna put some holes in the PVC pipes that run along the keel so water can escape through them, underneath the fiber-glassed in live-well, and back to the bilge. But just in case, better to use materials that won't rot out if it does get wet under the tank area.
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  #28  
Old 03-12-2015, 08:43 AM
daydreamer daydreamer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrkev View Post
Wait a minute, that looked like wood. Covered in fiberglass, but still, it's wood. Rip it all out... And start over. Better to do it right while the tank is out, right? More money, more time, but done right is the way to go.
were did you get your fuel tank? how many gal? cost? thanks
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  #29  
Old 03-12-2015, 09:43 AM
gtrkev gtrkev is offline
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Keith at Assurance Maine (954) 907-2149 in Ft Lauderdale got it for me. He is doing the install. I think he said it was $325 or around that price. He said it is brand new (just a little dirty from hand prints). He said the aluminum tank was quoted as a lot more, like $800 or so. I smelled the inside of the tank, plastic smell, no gas fumes at all. It's a brand new 85 gallon tank.
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  #30  
Old 03-12-2015, 03:26 PM
gtrkev gtrkev is offline
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Ahhh, much better, fiberglass... That's the way to go. No wood and looks s-t-r-o-n-g!!!
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