#21
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Thanks cor the words of encouragement. And if deserve the 4th dig
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#22
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Well some progress is being made. I Sanded down the hull since I was unhappy with the color I plan on a yet to be determined color. The transom is ust about ready to go back in. But while sanding I thought about the gunnels and the soft spots in a couple of places. So I am going to take it off and re due the undersides. I ran into my 1st and hopefully last encounter with the famous potter putty that was holding down the live well in the back. With a long chisel and a few choice worse I finally got the top free. Now I just have to wait for my boys and a few of their strong friends to come by to volunteer them. Any words of wisdom is always encouraged. I might as well do it all now than have regrets later
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#23
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so I'm still waiting for some of my son's buddy's to show up to help, I'm sure they will all be around when the boat is done.
After reading on what others have done with the cap here is what I gathered from it. Most of it I can use the left over nada core I have but in the high stress area such as rod holder locations I should use a stronger material. I don't want to use plywood so I'm of to FGCI and see what I can use. And I will probably buy the pourable transom also. Now if the rain would stop I can get back to grinding and glassing. |
#24
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I can understand using the pourable stuff if the back of the hull had nice gel coat and you didn't want to disturb but now that you grinded all of the gel off the rear why not just cut the skin off and do it from the back? You all ready got to glass back there anyhow now it would not be much harder to go that route. I like to always do a transom replacement form the inside but in your case doing it from the back would make more since. Most people that pour transom do it to keep from having to do all the fairing on the transom or to keep from tearing out the inside to do it form that angle. Now that you got to fair any how and the back is sanded down there is nothing to gain in my mind. Just a thought. You will be fine either way but I thought you were going that route to keep from having to cut the back and do all the fairing and sanding. Looks like you got to do that any how now?
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Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf |
#25
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Quote:
I can almost see the finish line on it and being able to use the boat again. Next on the horizon is getting someone to paint the hull at a decent price. And the getting the Admiral (wife) to cut a check for the engine .. I've got to start earning brownie points |
#26
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Well time for some pictures on this beautiful Saturday in Miami. I should be down in the keys fishing but hey I'm a Seacraft owner which means grinding or sanding or some other way to sweat.
Here are a few pics of the top cap off and the nasty wet wood I'm replacing |
#27
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"And the getting the Admiral (wife) to cut a check for the engine .. I've got to start earning brownie points"
Let me know how that works out!!! Oh yeah, if she does please give me the secret how you did it!!!! I have not figured out the correct procedure yet. |
#28
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Don I know exactly how to do it....she wants a new kitchen and bathrooms....oh yea and she want to go on trip to Germany... Now add that up and well.... no engine
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#29
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Enough work for today it must be 90 outside But in looking lifting the cap off will let me do some of the things I was planning on doing a bit easier. Pouring the transom on the sides to the correct hight will work easier painting the insides under the bait well and storage area on each side in tile chad will be easier and doing the foam under the cap will now be possible.
But any ways off to work to try and make some money. |
#30
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You are not being of too much help Jorge!!!
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