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  #21  
Old 09-21-2013, 10:11 AM
Blue_Heron Blue_Heron is offline
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Originally Posted by FishStretcher View Post
...It is funny how yours and Stricks can look pretty different with changes in the bow rail, anchor windlass and color...
There's another thing that's different between the two, but it's harder to pick out unless you could look at them side by side. My windshield is lower than stock. It's a subtle difference, but it changes the overall proportions of the boat.
Dave
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  #22  
Old 09-21-2013, 10:24 AM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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I think I found a decent gauge. Discontinued I think? But still available from a few places.

A Livorsi GMVWW. $45 a few places online.

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Originally Posted by cdavisdb View Post
Gotta love seeing another 25 running again, looks great!

Trim at rest looks just right. The boat will like a bit of weight forward when you are moving.

Speed and rpm looks to be in the right range. Suggest getting a vacuum gauge. At least in mine, the engine sounds and feels great, but its easy to get to the place where the vacuum is too low. With that load, mine would be at 7 inches vac at about 3500-3600 rpm and 26-27 knots.

Sweet boat!
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  #23  
Old 09-21-2013, 11:10 AM
Bushwacker Bushwacker is offline
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Originally Posted by FishStretcher View Post
I think I found a decent gauge. Discontinued I think? But still available from a few places.

A Livorsi GMVWW. $45 a few places online.
Looks good! Livorsi makes a lot of race boat stuff, so it should be good quality!
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  #24  
Old 09-22-2013, 11:59 PM
Bigshrimpin Bigshrimpin is offline
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Fish - Thanks for the link to the tanks! I hope I won't need them anytime soon, but it's great to know there is a drop in replacement. Your boat looks great.
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  #25  
Old 09-23-2013, 09:25 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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Originally Posted by Bigshrimpin View Post
Fish - Thanks for the link to the tanks! I hope I won't need them anytime soon, but it's great to know there is a drop in replacement. Your boat looks great.

You are welcome. First one I found that looked like a good fit. I will probably scrap mine unless they look pristine. One was tight against the aft bulkhead... Not good for tank or bulkhead. There might be a divinycel bulkhead in my future.
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  #26  
Old 09-23-2013, 11:39 PM
bilgerat bilgerat is offline
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I looked at those tanks and I didnt have enough height for them to fit , theres a 2x4 glassed under the bottom side of the deck just in front of the fuel hatch opening that wouldn't allow the front tank to fit, and I think my old tank was only 13" tall + the fill neck added 2.5"
I had a friend who has a aluminum welding and frabracation shop build new alum tanks for mine
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  #27  
Old 09-24-2013, 10:22 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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I am going to cut some templates to fit- maybe make a MDF mockup to test. My tanks had bevels cut in them. The big 13.75' x 4" bevels on these tanks might make them work? it would be tight. I don't know. I need to cut a template to look. I might be able to plot it full size at work...
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  #28  
Old 09-28-2013, 08:28 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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Originally Posted by FishStretcher View Post
I am going to cut some templates to fit- maybe make a MDF mockup to test. My tanks had bevels cut in them. The big 13.75' x 4" bevels on these tanks might make them work? it would be tight. I don't know. I need to cut a template to look. I might be able to plot it full size at work...
So I cut a luan template of the tank cross section. It looks like it fits, but is too long to get two in the boat. But a 56 gallon tank forward and down low, and a smaller 25ish gallon reserve would work well for me.

I think the 5606 tank with the fittings aft of the deck cross member would be good.

The old tanks look better than I would have thought, but the tops are corroded, and the paint is all peeling off.

The tank install was a hack job. The grey bilge paint drained into the crevices and 9 years on, never hardened, but did partly occlude the limber holes in the bulkhead. The under deck crossmember was sawn thru in order to slide the forward tank forward. So that needs repair.

I can't say for certain who did the tanks, but a well known engine installer in Worcester, MA did the engine, and that was a poor enough install that it had to be done twice. And the fuel hose dates are of the same vintage as the engine. Those will be replaced, too. They were cracked.

After a wash with a stiff brush and some limolene and a shop vac and a garden hose, I think I can now pressure wash the bilge and look at bulkheads, too.
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  #29  
Old 09-29-2013, 08:57 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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I spent two quality hours with a brush and pressure washer today. (After the tow rig quit on the road- 'nuther story) I think some white gel coat with high gloss additive is in my future. And maybe divinycel bulkheads. Or I may vacuum dry and resin infuse the existing ply.
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  #30  
Old 09-29-2013, 09:22 PM
Bushwacker Bushwacker is offline
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Here's another idea for bilge paint! http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ht=bilge+paint Seems like epoxy would be a good choice for bilge paint!
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