1978 SF restoration, my first one..... - Page 3

wtenglish · #21 04-13-2009, 10:07 AM

Bushwacker, that's some really good advice and the sort of input I was hoping to receive once I started posting. Right now I have my "wish list" and then there is the "reality list" that I hope to stick to once the big decisions are made. And for me the motor selection is a HUGE decision along with the final ride and performance the boat provides. In all reality I could probably do without a rear live well but as stated it's still on the wish list at this point. Keep the suggestions coming!

wtenglish · #22 05-05-2009, 12:13 AM

Not a lot of progress over the last month. I have been waiting on materials, giving it a lot of thought and fishing for ideas from many of you. The 1.5" Coosa for my transom was delivered and I used a hardi board as a template.

While waiting on materials I had some time to kill and went ahead and cut the fiberglass skin of off the back of the fuel tank lid. No surprises here.

This is just an illustration of the bracing that I installed to hopefully keep the hull from spreading. It's easy to install and easy to remove.

I set my jigsaw at a 14 degree angle to cut the Coosa for the transom

This is the dry fit. I really liked how Strick's boat turned out and decided I would shoot for something similar. It could change but that is the plan for now.

I don't ever see myself getting rid of this boat as long as I can use it and am giving some serious thought to using synthetic material for all of the structural components and coring. My only concern is what I will use for the backing where I need to attach the center console, leaning post, etc. Any ideas?

ROBCAR · #23 05-05-2009, 08:40 AM

good idea on the bracing using those 2x4's

I see you are closing the transom (which looks nice)....what kind of bracket will you use?

wtenglish · #24 05-05-2009, 09:41 AM

My plan is to buy one of Hermco's flotation brackets. I'm still torn between a single or buying one for twins and having it drilled for a single. I'm thinking I may get away from the bait well in the stern and try to find a center console with one built into the front.

Old'sCool · #25 05-05-2009, 10:14 AM

How about some 1/2" thick stainless for t-top mounting?? D&T for 5/16" or 3/8" and laminated to underside of deck.

wtenglish · #26 05-05-2009, 11:02 AM

I have given thought to either stainless or aluminum plate as you describe. I was speaking with Billy The Kid and he thought corrosion at the threaded connections may be an issue in the future. I was also thinking of using cypress or some other type of wood that is more rot resistant.

wtenglish · #27 05-20-2009, 11:19 PM

I installed the transom core by applying a bed of epoxy that I had thickened with Cabosil and then used a notched spreader to apply uniformly and put grooves in it. After that I temporarily wedged it from the inside while it used dry wall screws to tighten it against the outer skin and hold it in place while the thickened epoxy set up.

A week after the core was installed I finally had time to start glassing the inner skin.

wtenglish · #28 06-14-2009, 05:59 PM

Been a while since I've any much work but I'm trying to get back in the swing of things. Lot's of rain in NE Florida and now the 100 degree weather is upon us. Also distractions from friends wanting to fish. This is fishing the St. Augustine ledge last weekend. In my opinion some of the best bluewater fishing in the state if you want to run 50+ miles offshore.

I was finally prepared to install the new foam in the stringers. I used an 8.0 pound, closed cell structural foam. I checked with my QA people at work and understand that closed cell foam will not absorb water. Since you have to mix it and it expands, it is hard to get it to stop at the right elevation and has to be trimmed. As stated, cutting it does not jeopardize the integrity since it's "closed cell".

You'll notice in the picture that the center drain is no longer in the bottom. I had formed up the rear portion as if I were forming and placing concrete and had my first "bad" experience since I started this project. The directions on the foam were to mix in equal parts, mix for 10 to 20 seconds and pour immediately. I did all of this but the foam came out much thinner than anticipated. Anyway, the water like liquid found a small seam in my formwork, flowed through it and into the center drain. The foam proceeded to expand and filled the drain solid. I had to cut it out and will replace as can be seen a few pictures ahead.

Glassed the new foam to tie into the transom.

I did my final demo by removing some coring that was in the side walls of the hull. It was end grained balsa but will be replaced with Divinycell H-80.

Glassed the top of the stringers.

I've decided to raise the new deck approcximately 2" from the top of the stringers. I plan on accomplishing this by using to layers of 3/4" Coosa and a 1/2" core when I laminate the new deck. This is the layout and cutting of the Coosa.

This is just to check the fit. I will probably use epoxy thickened with Cabosil to set in place to lock down. You can also see the new drain for the forward compartment. I went with a 3" PVC that I cut instead of the 4" that was used originally. With what I think is a good idea that Billy the Kid gave me, I plan on only have one forward compartment instead of two and felt the larger size was overkill.

That's all for now!!!

grgrmouse · #29 06-19-2009, 04:59 PM

Very clean work. What was your layup schedule for the transom?

BigLew · #30 06-19-2009, 11:49 PM

Quote:

I have given thought to either stainless or aluminum plate as you describe. I was speaking with Billy The Kid and he thought corrosion at the threaded connections may be an issue in the future. I was also thinking of using cypress or some other type of wood that is more rot resistant.

When I bought my scepter over 10 years ago, the previous owner had used Anti-Sieze on many of the bolts that had been removed in the course of regualar maintainance and modification, even the exhaust manifold bolts when he had the engine rebuilt- not a hint of corrosion. I know it can be a mess, so I keep a roll of paper towels on board for when they are needed, but I have never had a problem removing a bolt/screw-anything that had been treated with the stuff. Other people have claimed that it gunks up over time, but I have wipeed away any excess at the time of use and have never seen any evidence of the stuff solidifying or getting stiff. (OK, but how else am I going to phrase that- I can hear the laughs already, but you know what I MEAN and it's not what you're laughing about!!!)