21 Hull #136...Restoration...Started - Page 20

Islandtrader · #**191** 05-26-2011, 08:07 AM

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Did they calibrate? They are great on the boats

Yep! On the first try.

thehermit · #**192** 05-26-2011, 08:24 AM

NICE

I had one sticking at first. I love them. They level the boat with ease. They hook up the bow of the 23 in chop too. All that and the indicator switch too....enjoy.

heynow2203 · #**193** 05-26-2011, 08:30 AM

what did those run you?

kerneltugboat · #**194** 05-26-2011, 12:35 PM

They will stick if the surface they are mounted on is not PERFECT (I actaully had fiberglass backing plates made for mine) , and they should be tightened doen from the center-out. I calibrate mine at the beginning of each season just to be sure. I think you hold down the up and down arrow, apply power and keep the buttons down for ten seconds? then they extend all the way out, and all the way back in automatically and you are ready to go. I am going on three years with no issues after the inital install. they work great on my 27, they must really be sensitive on a 23 or a 21, i paid about 600 bucks for mine.

floorboy · #**195** 05-27-2011, 12:45 AM

Forgive me I have never seen the ql tabs before........

How is it they are suppose to be more efficient? Seems to me like they would catch more water sticking straight down like that????

I really like the sleek design of them and if they are in fact the cats !@@# I will probably put a set on when I redo the transom. I just dont understand, which is the case more than not anymore....

Islandtrader · #**196** 05-27-2011, 12:36 PM

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what did those run you?

I bought them from fore and aft marine.

$619.00

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they work great on my 27, they must really be sensitive on a 23 or a 21, i paid about 600 bucks for mine.

I will post more on them later but let me tell you this, when I tried them yesterday and I was just seeing how they worked, I hit the port side down at speed and almost threw my buddy out of the boat. YOU DON'T NEED MUCH ON A 21

cdavisdb · #**197** 05-27-2011, 01:45 PM

Ditto on Floorboys comment. I know there must be a good answer, but I can't see how these tabs get around creating excess drag and and drag inducing turbulence . Anybody know?

todosier · #**198** 05-27-2011, 02:11 PM

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Ditto on Floorboys comment. I know there must be a good answer, but I can't see how these tabs get around creating excess drag and and drag inducing turbulence . Anybody know?

I haven't installed the ql tabs, but I did a bunch of research into the concept of an interceptor plate (which is what they are) and have installed static interceptor plates on a hull I built. From what I have read, plates are in theory more efficient than a tab because they don't have the drag associated with the surface of the tab and for the amount to projection there isn't "turbulance". If they aren't more efficient they sure aren't much less. They don't actually need to engage the water all that much and the amount of throw compared to a tab is small. On my boat the water comes off the edge nice and clean.

People sure don't ever complain about the performance and they sure are a nice clean look on a classic like the 21.

FELLOW-SHIP · #**199** 05-27-2011, 05:04 PM

Hi Islandtrader;

Looks like you will need to move your bunks over to the top of the first step. If you leave the trailer as is one day you will damage the tabs or your boat.

That is the only downfall I see in the QL system if you run over something while running or you don’t deal with a trailer boat bunks or if you use a fork lift to put the boat in dry storage you could catch it and damage the boat.

What I like about them is their low profile on the transom especially if a guy wants to put a bracket on a outboard.

The wedge or what the old timers also called a shingle approach of tabbing a boat has been around for a very long time. When the old timers built a boat and ran it for the first time they would bring different diameter lengths of rope with them. They would tie each size rope down under the boat close to the transom to add a lip to the transom to determine what would be the optimum trim. Then they would go back to the shop and build a wedge / shingle to the transom based on their test results. Now 60 or more years later we have the QL system.

FellowShip

………………………….

Just for the Grins

Official 23’ SF Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner

Islandtrader · #**200** 05-29-2011, 10:01 AM

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Looks like you will need to move your bunks over to the top of the first step. If you leave the trailer as is one day you will damage the tabs or your boat.

Did you notice my little sign above the trim blades [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

Most likely I will either move the bunks forward, or I will just cut them off.

Fortunately the boat will be lift kept most of the time and the lift bunks are one step in.