Decision time - Resin

[Locke N Load]

What about these for a plan?

Deck - Carbon-core plastic honeycomb for the core and 1700 with poly for the lamination. Final layer of 1708 and epoxy to bond to the hull sides and sanding/fairing and use epoxy putty for adhering to the stringers.

Transom - Coosa board for core with epoxy and 1700 for every layer to adhere to the hull sides and bottom and final layer of 1708 for sanding/fairing.

Stringers - Raising them 2" with Bigshrimpin's idea of vinyl gutters laid on top of the existing stringers and then 1700 with epoxy draped over to secure to the existing stringers.

Bracket - Female mold coated with gelcoat then a layer of CSM and then 1700 and poly with Coosa board for a core. Lots of layers of 1700 and poly on both sides of the Coosa.

Cap - mostly just the transom area so 1708 and epoxy so it can attach to the existing cap along the gunnels and be sanded/faired.

Bulkheads/Console - Port bulkhead separating cuddy area from deck area will be just a flat panel so 1700/poly with a final layer of 1708/epoxy for bonding to hull and deck and fairing/sanding. Starboard side will be where the steering, controls, MFD, VHF, etc. are so a more complex shape, but same plan as port.

All holes in the hull filled in will be 1700/epoxy.

Sound reasonable? 1700 and poly for making parts with 1708 and epoxy as a final layer to bond them to the hull and so the CSM layer can be sanded into where needed. No 1708 for structural applications. Is one layer of 1708 enough to secure the deck to the hull sides? Maybe a strip layer along the seam then a full layer over the whole deck connection point?

[Bikecop1]

Please post some detailed pics of your progress. Thanks.

[Locke N Load]

Originally Posted by Bikecop1

Please post some detailed pics of your progress. Thanks.

Once I get going do some actual work I will have a build thread started with pics.

I might just get some samples of 1700 and 1708 and poly and epoxy and play with them to make my decision. Could be fun.

Edit* A couple yards of 1708 and 17oz. cloth as well as a couple quarts of polyester and epoxy resin coming from US Composites to play around with.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Originally Posted by Locke N Load

Sound reasonable? 1700 and poly for making parts with 1708 and epoxy as a final layer to bond them to the hull and so the CSM layer can be sanded into where needed. No 1708 for structural applications. Is one layer of 1708 enough to secure the deck to the hull sides? Maybe a strip layer along the seam then a full layer over the whole deck connection point?

Youve gotta use the 1708 with poly, it needs the mat in between... I dont find 1708 to really help with fairing, it makes it more difficult if anything due to the thickness. Double tab everything, especially that joint because it wont be tabbed on the bottom... You can hold the second layer back a few inches when youre making panels,,, for the tabbing to lay into later and really help with fairing.

[uncleboo]

If you're using the single thick sheet for the transom, you could use the cutoffs, cut accordingly, adhere them on edge on top of the existing stringers and have a very solid support for the deck material. Check my deck replacement post. My deck is solid!

[Locke N Load]

Originally Posted by uncleboo

If you're using the single thick sheet for the transom, you could use the cutoffs, cut accordingly, adhere them on edge on top of the existing stringers and have a very solid support for the deck material. Check my deck replacement post. My deck is solid!

She came out great! I'm thinking the Zuke 140 as well.

The '71 Seafari has the 4 straight stringers. My plan is to raise them using 2"x3" vinyl gutters from home Depot. Benefit will be the raised deck, but also rigging tubes. The gutters will be glued to the tops of the existing stringers and then glassed over. I am confident it will give plenty of support. Your idea of the Coosa strips just gave me thought. I could glue strips along the hull sides. The edges of the new deck can sit on top of the strips, glued in place for extra support. Still glassed too. That should make the connection super strong.

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by Locke N Load

What about these for a plan?.

Your plan sounds good, Just a few thoughts....

Deck - Carbon-core plastic honeycomb for the core and 1700 with poly for the lamination. Final layer of 1708 and epoxy to bond to the hull sides and sanding/fairing and use epoxy putty for adhering to the stringers.

Sounds good, you can also just buy cabosil and thicken the epoxy resin to make your own putty. That will be cheaper plus you can make it as thick as you would like. The premade stuff is nice as well but have always made my own.
When fairing there are two different ways I normally fair out epoxy coated surfaces. 1) If using all 1700 with a skim coat of fairing compound. 2) Using 1700 with the last layer of 1708 csm side up and fairing into the csm side itself. Both ways keep from sanding directly on 1700 fibers so I dont cut threw them.
It is super hard to sand or fair the csm side of 1708. It will gum up the sand paper badly. Me I don't like using a lot of fair compound to skim out an entire surface so I use the 1708 but do still use small amounts touching up low spots. Using a lot of fairing compound to me is like using bondo on a car. I keep it to a minimum but nothing wrong with the stuff if used correctly.
Also you can buy micorballoons or something like west systems microlite 410 to add to the resin to make the epoxy easier to sand. Lots of people do use just 1700 then do a 1/8th to a 1/16th thick of fairing compound and then block sand most of it back off to get a smooth surface. Either way will get good results and keep the 17 oz fibers strong and undamaged.

Bracket - Female mold coated with gelcoat then a layer of CSM and then 1700 and poly with Coosa board for a core. Lots of layers of 1700 and poly on both sides of the Coosa..

You may want a few more layers of CMS behind the gel coat due to you can get "print threw" from the biax pattern if you don't have enough between them. I normally do 2-3 layers of csm then add the 1708 csm side down to make a good barrier to prevent the biax pattern from showing up in the outside gel surface.

All holes in the hull filled in will be 1700/epoxy..

Far as small holes that are non structural I like both epoxy and VE resin. They both will work fine when bonding to the old glass. Me personally I like to use VE due to it will set fast, the glass don't sag if flashed well, it sands easier, hardens fast enough I can scuff and add more layers in 30 minutes if needed. Epoxy will work great but it takes much longer to cure especially if you need several more layers. It dose not seem to blend as well and sands like crap.

Sound reasonable? 1700 and poly for making parts with 1708 and epoxy as a final layer to bond them to the hull and so the CSM layer can be sanded into where needed. No 1708 for structural applications. Is one layer of 1708 enough to secure the deck to the hull sides? Maybe a strip layer along the seam then a full layer over the whole deck connection point?

Bonding the deck and parts to each other will need several layers of fillets. I would use a curved object to drag putty in the corner to make a base to lay the cloth on. Then I would cut several strips from 2" wide to 4" to 6" and 8" to lap on top of one another to build up a nice curve between the deck and the liner. Same thing between the stringers and the deck. There are some good post on here about tabbing and fillets.

[Locke N Load]

Good point about trying to sand straight epoxy. I can see how since it is softer it would not sand as well as the hard poly or VE. I can see fairing compound being so popular.