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  #11  
Old 01-30-2020, 08:18 AM
uncleboo uncleboo is offline
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Location: Edenton, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMala View Post
Last question! I?m back to square one, coosa is hard for me to find,
Have you looked for Baltek? That's what I used in my 18...1 layer of 1.5". However, I did mine from the inside. The transom is rock solid and I couldn't be happier. I'll have to beg to differ on the compression strength comment versus plywood. This stuff has tremendous compression strength!
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  #12  
Old 01-30-2020, 12:20 PM
dirtwheelsfl dirtwheelsfl is offline
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Location: St. Lucie county FL
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I didnt see much of a lip left for enough to tab into. I would wrap 10" or so onto the hull. Like was said make sure you bevel enough so you dont build up a lump with glass on the bottom...
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  #13  
Old 02-06-2020, 08:03 AM
TMala TMala is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2019
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The local fiberglass supply had Penske so I went with the Penske board 2 at 3/4. I cut the lip out completely as I already had to wrap around anyway and went with existing inner skin laminated to 1.5 oz, 1708, 1708, 1.5 0z, 3/4 Penske, 1.5oz, 3/4 penske. I have decent access to the inside of the transom right now through the fish boxes, I may tab in some 1708 on the inside as well or even get rid of the boxes all together to work more on the inside still haven’t decided yet.

This weekend I’m going to fair the outside up the hull sides and was thinking of this laminate schedule for the outer skin and looking for thoughts

Outside layer of Penske board —>1.5oz, 1708,1708,1708,1708,6oz cloth wrapped to the hull sides.

I already started fairing the bottom of the hull to accept new glass, what a PITA I don’t recommend going this route haha!

The enclosure I built is small so backing up to take pictures to see the whole thing at this point is impossible
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