#11
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KNZ, how much did you end up paying for this, if you don't mind me asking. I have just identified termites in my boat and am fumigating it but I may be putting it up for sale.
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#12
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Hope all had a great summer. Still plugging away at it here. Has a mild setback with cutting the coosa. MAKE SURE YOU USE A CARBIDE TIP BLADE . Had my jig saw blade heat and bend causing me to have cut the top shorter than i wanted. Which in turn made me rethink how the cap was going to attach, More paralysis by analysis. Finally just said F-it and move forward. Its only glass and if it doesn't work out. Grind it out and start over. I ended up glassing one layer exterior of transom with a 3" overhang at the top and mounted waxed melamine outside perpendicular to the ground and a few more layers from the inside so the cap has 2" of straight glass to mount to, just like the sides. We will see how it turns out in the am. Also looking forward to a cold front so I can mix up the resin for the transom core. Its all cut, sized, and mounting braces ready to squeeze.
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#13
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Question? With this cool weather here I plan on epoxying my transom core. With that said, How have you all planned for the drain. Size hole, PVC pipe/brass to the exterior plug mount? Any help would be appreciated. I tend to get stalled on the little details. Thank you.
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#14
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Took advantage of the cool am and set the core. What a pain in the a**. Had the Mrs help as much as she could. Didn’t get it as thick as I should have, was worried it would kick, so I took some plastic and created a dam till it kicked. Fingers crossed. I waxed the bolts prior to install. Going to spin them tonight before bed and again in the am. Hope the epoxy doesn’t cure to them.
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#15
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Yes definitely take those bolts out asap!
On the drain... in the past ive used a 1" piece of sch40 inside of a 2 or 2.5", and poured the gap with epoxy. A standard bronze drain will fit right in the 1" and the screws will be going into epoxy, leaving the core totally out of the equation. Holesaw out the core and leave the outerskin then glue it in. Inner skin will go over it on the inside. Some guys will just delete the core at the bottom but then youve got screws coming thru the inside usually. Not a fan... |
#16
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Thanks for the reply Dirt, that is the exact direction I was looking to go. Spun the bolts tonight, as well as the nuts. No sticky! I'll double check one more time in the am before SHIFT.
PS. Love your work. Big inspiration! But you move way to FAST. Makes me feel like I'm in reverse. |
#17
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Victory! Bolts and boards came off without issue and transom is solid all over. It's a Thanksgiving Day miracle. Happy Thanksgiving all.
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#18
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Hope all had a wonderful Holiday and Happy New Year. Been plugging away in between vacations here. Took your advise Dirt with the drain. Came out pretty good. Plug screws will definitely have something to bite into. Also I?ll have a rubber 1? stopper type plug inside for emergencies.
Also was able to tab the coosa in with biax and two layers of 1708. Started to get hot even with the cooler weather. Gonna give a quick sand and two more layers tomorrow I hope. |
#19
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Two layers Saturday and last two layers today. Transom core is locked in!!! Next up, stringers. Plan is a grid style. Two 1.5" H130 divinycell sandwiched together for 3" as the main two stringers and 1.5" divinycell bulkheads.
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#20
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Looks good, keep at it. I just finished a 20, pretty sure you are only a couple blocks north of me in the farms I feel like I have seen this boat in the yard on one of my bike rides.
1 word of advice since I see you are doing it all outside under an awning, I did the same. Attack this project as hard as you can while we have this nice weather, I did the bulk of mine this year from April to its first splash on July 4. Grinding and glassing after work and on weekends wearing a suit and respirator in 90* weather sucks! If (more like when) I move up and do a 23 or 25 I have told myself I am going to do it in the winter this time... |
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