#11
|
|||
|
|||
We got a little work done with the warmer weather around the past two weekends. Boat is now covered in a tent. The make shift "shop" keeps it protected from the elements and gives us the ability to crank some heat if we need it.
First, we removed the casting platform. Then, the entire belly and stringers were ground down for a better bonding surface. Lots of hours with the grinder and disc sander. Snapped some lines cut open the stringers and removed all the foam/water. About 2-3 inches of foam in there, suspended off the hull. Any recommendations on a foam to use (and where to buy) for raising the stringers? Need it for reshaping the void and then raising 2.5". Trying to stay away from divinycell because of the $$. Looking for something like billythekid used in his build. Trying to use poly on the stringers but heard it will melt some foams. Cheers |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
that is the straightest I have ever seen someone cut the stringers open, holy cow. I used a peice of 2" dyvinacell to raise my stringers on the third one , number one and two I just rip strips of marine plywood and glued and screwed them together then glasses them to the stringers. I think 1 sheet of 3/4 marine ply ($120) will do all the stringers. if memory serves me they are 3 " wide. I think I stack 3 pieces on top of each other. dont waste your time or money on the hard foam from homey depot it has no strength at all.
__________________
36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
You could pour foam in those stringers. Then just cut flush and wrap glass over the top. A lot easy and quicker than trying to cut wood or foam sheets to fit.
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I'm with Corey. Those stringers look to be in great shape, if you wanted after you fill with foam you could wrap a couple of layers of 1708 around them and tie them to the hull for even more strength. That's called "overkill" which is good.
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Why don’t you like the flat deck idea? I’m curious because I’m thinking of going that route on my 23 project. |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Where’d you get that tent from? I want one! |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Go flush deck. Its the best thing I did to my boat.......
__________________
36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
No work getting done as of late. It doesn't snow like this too often in New England. When conditions are good you got to head to the mountain.
Cory/DonV- Thanks for the input. Couple holes in the stringers and one cracked striger (starboard side where the rigging crosses over). Plan on tying them into the hull. We like "overkill". Surfnski- The tent is a shelterlogic. Not the thickest of material but it has lasted through 3 nor'easters so far. Its nice because it keeps the water but still lets natural light through. Craigslist is a good place to find a deal on one. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Thanks Billy-- sometimes it better to be lucky than good. Hopefully the fiberglassing comes as naturally as the grinding.... Did you use "last a foam" its the only foam I can find in 2" width. Its a core material on fiberglass supply. We like the flat deck as well. Boat feels much bigger with the casting platform out. Did you make your front locker water tight? The only down side seems to be water getting in since you loose the drainage channels. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Hi roomtomove. Looks like we are both about the same stage in our 20’ restorations. Did you leave the keel stringer alone? I drilled a test hole and found the wood core was soaked. I cut it open and removed the core which was saturated. It looked like a basic 2x4. Thinking of filling it with sea cast.
|
|
|