Adding Support to Gunnels

[abl1111]

First - thx for the input - been tough finding info ANYWHERE online to tackle this.

I would want to not only capture the flat cap, but also the the (2) radius' on either side of the cap. So, if I used a sheet of plastic on top of the cap and along both sides ( to avoid gumming up the nonskid ) and layer it up as you described - once it kicked, that pc would not fit under the gunnel as it would be too wide. That's why I was thinking the female mold idea.

I do like the sandblast idea as the idea of hand-sanding that area under the gunnel made me want to puke ! My goal is to have glass and core on all the surface of under the gunnel to really tighten things up.

This has all stemmed from the fact that the hard top I recently put on attaches to vertical surfaces ( not horizontal - which I think is a better idea ) of the topside/gunnel and this topside/gunnel structure is not built for this - so the gunnel flexes.

[abl1111]

When I figure this out, I will share...

[FishStretcher]

Originally Posted by abl1111

First - thx for the input - been tough finding info ANYWHERE online to tackle this.

I would want to not only capture the flat cap, but also the the (2) radius' on either side of the cap. So, if I used a sheet of plastic on top of the cap and along both sides ( to avoid gumming up the nonskid ) and layer it up as you described - once it kicked, that pc would not fit under the gunnel as it would be too wide. That's why I was thinking the female mold idea.

I do like the sandblast idea as the idea of hand-sanding that area under the gunnel made me want to puke ! My goal is to have glass and core on all the surface of under the gunnel to really tighten things up.

This has all stemmed from the fact that the hard top I recently put on attaches to vertical surfaces ( not horizontal - which I think is a better idea ) of the topside/gunnel and this topside/gunnel structure is not built for this - so the gunnel flexes.

Could you build on top of the cap with a foam core, drape down the vertical sides, then trim.

Just a single layer top and bottom, but maybe more on the vertical sides.

Then pop them off the cap. Then freehand rip up the middle with a router. Maybe 3/8" wide? Then reassemble and patch the rip. The part should be narrow enough to slip inside the cap now. You could even use G-10 skins for the patch. You might have to space the patch off the cap with 4x4s so that the vertical parts don't hit the existing cap when you patch up the rip with the 3/8" kerf. (So as to help maintain the compound curvature)

Then bond the inserts inside the cap with thickened resin.

Maybe that will work?

I was at the dentist today getting a crown. He was making splash molds of my teeth all morning.

Inspiration.

[abl1111]

I think the best way ( at least the way I can envision ) is to buy balsa core with the 'cloth' backing. Pre-cut it to fit under the area I want to stiffen. Pre-cut mat - saturate it well and in small sections, glass the balsa in place. Continue this process till its all covered - then glass on top with roving or bias roving.

[dave s]

You could also use Contour Cut Divinycell or NidaCore; the Divinycell is made up of smaller squares, so it should follow the curves better. Both have a scrim glass layer and glassing upside down will work.
You'll still need to add backing plates for rod holders, TTop, etc.

[Jeswick]

Any fix is going to be a pita.
Flip it and foam it....or dam up the bottom of the gunnel and foam it from the top. I've noticed some builders of new boats are doing this now (foaming the gunnels while in the mold).
Good luck.