Bad Fuel Pump??

[stumpie2]

the most important adjustment in any carb job(rebuild) is the float height adj. i would almost bet the floats are set too low and the pumps cant constently supply enough fuel to run wide open. therefor the engine will run WOT until the fuel level is lowered, then it slows to an rpm that the pump can keep up with. all of this can be caused by the float too low and not opening the needle early enough and the pump is playing catch-up. what a coincidence the carbs. were rebuilt and this problem shows up. just my .02

[77SceptreOB]

What a coincidence the carbs. were rebuilt and this problem shows up. just my .02

Interesting....

Maybe they heard the change rattling around in my pocket and figured they (The Dealer) haven't roughed me up enough!!
LOL! There coming back for more. Hard to win when you play against the Stealership.

[76Red18]

Bringing this to the top. Found my problem. Key switch was cracked. Tested fine once. Found the problem when it was wet. Got a little shock when shutting it off. Replaced it and have been out 3 times with no problems.

[Blue197320]

76red18, im sorry i didnt see your problem. i had a 1985 evinrude 150 before my merc. the keyswitch caused it to have no spark. replaced it and it was fine after that. i couldnt beleive the key switch would do that.

[76Red18]

Variable mid to high rpm miss. Don't know if 77SceptreOB has fixed his problem or not but it something he can check

[77SceptreOB]

Variable mid to high rpm miss. Don't know if 77SceptreOB has fixed his problem or not but it something he can check

Maybe thats it, I'll check into this.

[workinpr0gress]

I would start with an original shop manual, multimeter, and a compression guage. It could be a lot of things really. Many a high speed problem can be attributed to an electrical problem like a timer base, rect., power pack, stator, temp... etc. I have seen coil packs do something very similar at higher rpms also, from old wires arcing or the pack being weak, or corrosion. If it is ultimately a fuel problem then I would take it back to the person who did the carbs. The float height is a straight forward thing. All that said, it's pretty easy to pick up a piece of crud in the needle and seat or a jet. If it goes on for a while it can score the cylinder a little and it will read a good comp.# but at higher rpm under load it can wipe the cylinder wall clean when that piston temp comes up. Especially the top two cylinders.

It's a tedious job of process of elimination for a broad problem like you have but it'll be like a checkup for your motor.
Good luck

[77SceptreOB]

I've replaced or rebuilt just about every fuel related component. So I doubt that is the problem.

Compression was checked and was good. 130 psi max, 122 min. almost equal side vs. side at the same cylinder elevation. the lower 2 were 122 (left) and 124 (right). middle 128/126 and top 129/130.

Electrical, now that a different story. I believe that is where the problem lies. This was a saltwater motor and no parts, except sparkplugs, have been replaced.

Any ideas on how and where to start troubleshooting the electrical system. Preferably with instruments and cheaper parts first. LOL.

[workinpr0gress]

I've replaced or rebuilt just about every fuel related component. So I doubt that is the problem.

Compression was checked and was good. 130 psi max, 122 min. almost equal side vs. side at the same cylinder elevation. the lower 2 were 122 (left) and 124 (right). middle 128/126 and top 129/130.

Electrical, now that a different story. I believe that is where the problem lies. This was a saltwater motor and no parts, except sparkplugs, have been replaced.

Any ideas on how and where to start troubleshooting the electrical system. Preferably with instruments and cheaper parts first. LOL.

The oem shop manual for that motor. Ebay. At this point if you have a local marina guy who dealt those motors he'd probably let you borrow the manual for a good while. The "assumed knowledge" terminology sometimes is a pain with oem manuals....get yourself a haynes/chilton also and you will be set to tackle almost any problem that motor can give you. Get yourself some beer and a friend for the electrical stuff or get yourself test harness. Bring your patience in abundance. Don't skip anything if anything do it thrice and log every number. The fact you belive it might be a corrosion problem means maybe clean everything up and lubriplate, grease. Check for pins that are broken off inside the boots. They have been my nemesis numerous times their crimped shape holds them in place when they snap right behind the crimp. Talk about intermittent.

[gss036]

If you can't figure it out, go over to the Iboats forum and post. There is a master Yamaha mechanic that hangs out there and he is very good at trying to help out with problems. He lives is Kittyhawk N.C. and goes by Rodbolt.