Stern lifting prop for 20 MA with bracket

[Old'sCool]

And yes, the bracket needs to come back off

[bartt]

DANG IT !!!!!

My next question was going to be " how to notch without removing the bracket?" That compounded with it is an aluminum bracket had me pondering how to cut. The Bennetts may still be an option, but still don't know if there is the verticle height. I really don't want to mess with taking off the bracket.... it is on there so well and remounting of it, no matter how well it is done has me neverous of water infiltration as it would be using the same holes, and it is never quite the same as an orginal mount. Am I being over anal on this assumption?

Thanks,
Bart

[CaptLloyd]

Trim tabs are the answer to your problem. Look closely how Capt Chuck has his mounted, that is how you should to it.

Mount the tabs on the outboard panal of the hull and hole saw/cut away what ever you need to the swim platform(let it stick thru) to mount the actuator properly. Cutting thru the swim platform at that area will not affect the structural integrity of the bracket.

Also, look in the photo section at how Zach mounted his Lencos

The bigger the trim tab, the more you can stuff the bow

Good luck!

Lloyd

[Old'sCool]

If you lay it out accurately and are handy with a sabre saw, drill, files.....but it still needs to be off. Alum. is really easy to cut, drill, etc.

[Capt Chuck]

If you lay it out accurately and are handy with a sabre saw, drill, files.....but it still needs to be off. Alum. is really easy to cut, drill, etc.

I think with proper lay out, tools mentioned above, masking (transom protection) and prep you could cut the opening without bracket removal. Using your lenco's also is not out of the question.
I'm going to steal one of "Stricks" photos. If I'm not mistaken his bracket was cut for his Lenco's after mounting

[Bushwacker]

Here is my trim tab mount with the Bennett tabs. They need to be mounted out at the chine to get maximum "roll control".

[McGillicuddy]

Bart, Check you PM

[Michael Vezzosi]

I've got the same (Bob's Machine) manual jack plate on one of my BW 15 Sports. You've got your engine just about bottomed out. That's where I'd start. Hard to tell from the photo, but normally, the anti-ventilation plate performs best 1-1 1/2" above the keel when each are parallel. This is accurate for my both of my Whalers running F60's, but I have not tried this with the Seacraft.

BTW, beautiful boat! Vezo, Part II.

[eggsuckindog]

With the bracket you have compensate for the set back of the bracket - I think its like 1" up for each back - somebody with a bracket help out here as I just have always had transoms

As the water comes off the hull it rises, so the engine height has to be raised to compensate or your dragging a giant planer, in this case the cavatation plate=lots of drag.

[McGillicuddy]

raise an inch for every 10 to 12" of setback