Teak

[gofastsandman]

How do they get that entitled transom shine on the wagons?

[Bushwacker]

GFS - Teak is a unique animal when it comes to sanding - it's so oily that it'll clog the paper if you use too fine a grit; same for cutting, can use a fairly course blade. I used 60 grit on a power sander; it's best if you sand with the grain, so I don't think an orbital sander works as well. Belt sander works fine if you're careful. On the application, I just followed the Epifanes directions, nothing fancy. I believe 1st coat is thinned 50%, next coat 25%, then 10%, then last 3 coats were unthinned. Just used foam brushes, let dry overnight, then wet sand w/280 or 320 grit, just enough to knock off the gloss and knock down bugs, bubbles and high spots. I had used the 2-part cleaners several times over the years, and they destroy the soft grain and have little effect on the hard grain which then becomes high spots. Even sanding w/60 grit won't fix it because it also takes off more soft grain than hard. Would have to run it thru a planer to fix this problem! I will NEVER use those cleaners again on anything I intend to varnish! Took about 6-8 coats to get it reasonably level but it still isn't perfect. I guess those cleaners are ok if you're just gonna oil it and leave it kinda rough, which I did on my old swim platform because I didn't want that slick! May have used 400 grit under last coat, but you should knock the gloss off so next coat will bond. The red 3M pad also works; it tends to clog but can be washed out. Just wet sanding with wet-or-dry paper eliminates the clogging. In my experience, most varnishes are much different than paint - they remain relatively soft so they can't be buffed, but if properly applied most will level out real nice and have a good gloss with no other work required. It may be a little more work initially than chemical cleaning and oiling, but I've been there/done that, and once you get a good layer of varnish on it, I think it's a lot less work in the long run, especially if you keep it covered. Just a couple of coats every couple of years vs clean and reoil about every 6 months in this climate, plus the oil will still oxidize and turn dark even if you keep it covered! Varnish keeps the oxygen away and the new ones have UV inhibiters to make it harder to break down.

[Fishjack]

Several friends of mine that have a lot of teak on their boats swear by Honey Teak -

Honey Teak

Seem to really hold up well... Because I have very little teak left on my SeaCraft I have been using Cetol.. touch it up every year or so..

Good Luck.

[gofastsandman]

Thanks Bushwacker,
Love the way you mounted the classic creations of Carla Industries!
Do you still go to the Bahamas? I don`t have much wheel time, but I might piggy back with others. What kind of spares do I need to start collecting? I have an extra quicksilver hub for my new to me Mirage + and the old michigan wheel, basic tools,breaker bar, wood block, some wire, circuit test light ,connectors,crimper, spark plugs,+ fuel filter and a dry place for my passport and HMS permit. I need to get a spare bulb and fuel line.

I`m sooooo old school some times. I made sure my truck was made on a Wednesday. I know , robots don`t know what day it is.As for the 115 vs 150 debate, you really made me start thinking . My 4.3 v6 makes 240 ft lbs, and is 3/4 of a 5.7 basically. In 87 that`s probably more than a 350 ci made.
Carla said the 21 was RACED w twin 50 4s Homelites. My beloved carbed looper drinks a lot of Parrish wine at cruise. Has a nice little sweet spot @ 3700 though. It`s a real pig on the pins.

Thanks a bunch for the teak tips. P.B.R. is the best. No B.S. , and no wanker adverts. Subscription on the list. MMMMM Epiphane. Time to take the tarp off and get cracking.
GFS

[joey]

Check out "joey's fibercraft" in the other boats gallery on the opening page of the site and if you like that look it is fairly simple to do.It's basically 3 coats of West
System epoxy washed and sanded between coats and 6 coats of clear AwlGrip on top.

[wavelength]

When I first got our 23 I ran the rod holders and some trim through a planner then oiled it with Interlux teak oil looked great for about 6 months. I'm thinking the same planner then varnish.

[McGillicuddy]

joey -Your Fibercraft looks awesome. I like the epoxy under the Awlgrip clear coat idea; it looks fantastic. And bulletproof -- sounds like reeeel low maintenance, too. How long has it been since the finish was done?

[joey]

Thanks.Those photo's were taken a few months after I did the teak.I kept the boat on a open lift and the hard southern sun would warrent about once every 9 months or year sanding and another coat or two of AwlGrip.I am a little brightwork crazy,so I would strip it every couple years down to the epoxy,fire a couple more coats of West and then the AwlGrip.I enjoy doing brightwork,I think the end result is worth so much more than the effort it requires.

[gofastsandman]

Wow Joey,
Reminds me of an old Willy Roberts I saw down around Cudjoe Key @ 14 yrs ago. Love the pod helm! Sweet lines too.

I love teak and was trying to get an idea of the best low maintenance approach for a proper finish. I`ve never used epoxy. Questions please.
1Will it yellow in coming years?
2Does it eventually flake and peel?
3How do you recoat/ refinish?
4How long will it last?
5Other concerns?
Thx,
GFS

[joey]

Yeah,I do love those old Willy boats myself,a bit of a pain to pole by todays standards,but a truly beautiful skiff.
The epoxy on the raw teak really seals the grain so that the wood doesn't soak up all of the Awlgrip.The epoxy itself really doesn't yellow,it's the clear AwlGrip that you have to maintain.It will require yearly attention here in S.Fl,but it's not that difficult to do.The key is the first time the teak is done that you take care to do it right. Be sure that the epoxy is put on in the shade,if the wood is hot the epoxy tends to bubble and fish eye.Also when mixing the epoxy do so in a slow non violent manner so as not to get any air in the epoxy.Be sure that you scrub the wood between coats of West with a lite soapy water and scotch bright pad to remove the amine blush that west will leave.There realy isn't any need to sand between coats of epoxy unless you have bubbles or runs to remove.After a few coats,enough so that you can not feel any grain through the epoxy,give it a few days or so before you apply the AwlGrip.I've done my share of brightwork on sport boats over the years and I can't say enough how important a good brush is when appling AwlGrip.A good and expensive badger hair brush is the way to go,unless you can spray,then by all means shoot it.Again do it in the shade,you can get a few coats on per day weather permitting and again no need to sand between coats unless you have a run or 24 hrs has passed between coats.
I would sand mine with 320 every 9 months or so and reapply a few more coats of clear.But after a couple times of that I would strip it down to the epoxy with a heat gun,sand,maybe some epoxy(if the grain has raised)and more Awlgrip.
It does require a little effort to keep it looking perfect,but I think it's worth it.

Now,I really will confuse you.Look at the Jenna Mae on my website at the bottom of the post.The toe rail,brow cap and helm pod are mahagony and they have about 6 coats of Bristle Finish on them.It looks really good,but lasts about 6 months down here.You can put AwlGrip over the Bristle after 30 days or so,but I sold the boat before I got to it.