#111
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Re: Shooting Primer
Excellent Job Terry, i am envious, good work. The epoxy is the way to go- lot of work- that's why my 21 had the rough interior fishing boat finish vs. the factory mirror finish. You will be glad you made that choice later on. I do know the Interlux Perfection(2pt. Aliphatic,Urethane) is awesome stuff- Aliphatics are tough and have superior UV resistance, and excellent adhesion characteristics.
Ironically Carla and i were discussing your original paint scheme, the red and black. Was that design intentional, based on a paint scheme off one of Moesly's old prototype boats? We visited this weekend and i was flipping through her albun and noticed the uncanny resemblance, and asked her. She was not sure- so how bout it ole' boy?
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I heard it on the coconut telegraph.......... |
#112
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Re: Shooting Primer
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The short answer no...Just looking for something that was retro to that period in time. Most likely will just keep it stock. White top...belt line a complimentary color to the hull color. Still have a way to go before any color decision is made.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#113
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Hatches and Receivers
I know it has been hot around the country so I will not get much empathy when I say it is hard to get up enthusiasm for sanding and fairing. The difference here in South West FLA. is that when you go to sleep its 87 and when you wake up its 85 and then around noon the heat index is 108.
With that said I have put off major sanding till October [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] Too keep going on the project I have been in the process of recessing my receivers and making 3 different size hatch covers. First...I know this is getting anal however I did not like the look of the receiver sitting on top of the sole cockpit (it the ridge sticking up). The first thing to recess is to make a template that is the same shape except larger than the receiver. Same technique I used in recessing the high speed pick up. Route and clean up Check the fit before removing TP Final fit After that was done ( 4x ) 3 different size receivers. I then needed to make the hatch covers. This has been well documented before but I will give you the short on how I do it. After the female mold is made. Products Used A. 4 coats of dura tec B. Sand mold with 120 C. Radius with clay D. 5 coats of mold release wax E. 3 coats of PVA F. 3-4 coats of dura tec G. Resin and then glass and core Mold after Step D When it is popped out everything should be perfect....WRONG After step 4 on the first hatch cover I stopped and put the part aside for the next day (forgot the reason why). When it came time to lay up the glass I noticed that the PVA was lifting away from the mold. I thought that I could lay up anyway and put more weight on the core and press it back down. This did not work and as you see in the picture I have a few air pockets and a nice void around the edge of the hatch. This only happened on the first hatch, since the rest of them I laid up as soon as the dura tec was dry. Ready to Pop We have a problem First hatch faired and Second Hatch Good Three size of hatches For my Ice chest hatch I made the core out of Urethane Foam Finally I could set the receivers in place with 5200 and call it a day (more like a week). Back side of receiver with 5200 Front side cleaned up and smooth Trial fit with hatch and hinge Hopefully I can get the floor in before Labor day
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#114
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Re: Hatches and Receivers
Thanks for your reply and advise on my post. I see how your way made better parts then mine. I respect your work. You have a true classic.
You mentioned a high build epoxy primer. What brand? I found some valspar VS 50 on clearence for under $40 a gallon and after some research found most epoxy primers will work most 2 part polys. Any insite? Kyle
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www.lionheartlandscapes.com Design, install, and concrete pavers. Will travel |
#115
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Re: Hatches and Receivers
Thank You,
I use a product called Pro Seal Check out the web site. It is definitively more than $40/gal. You can put epoxy over almost anything.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#116
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Work on the V-Bunk Area
This should be my last bit of glassing (not counting the taping of the floor).
The V-bunk area before I bought the boat. After I pulled the carpet up the gel coat was all crazed out. I like to make notes where I know I won't forget them. Did some heavy duty sanding. I wanted to fill the large access holes since I would not need them and I thought they were awkward to get at. Cut up some plastic cardboard and made it tight against the opening. Outside and Inside View. The layup was done from the inside. Less fairing to do and a lot less sanding. Different sizes of glass...the first size is the same as opening and then they get larger. When done it looks like this is the way it should be. The next part was to lay in some backing cleats for a v bunk filler and to glass in the bow U bolt backer and the front deck lifting ring pad. Shoot some primer to see what I have. Happy with the results. Now to the major task of putting the floor together.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#117
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Re: Work on the V-Bunk Area
Terry, nice work! I know you're not planning to use the bunks so this probably isn't a big deal, but are you concerned about losing access to storage space under the bunks? Since the 21's never had any foam flotation in them, they already have a tremendous amount of storage in them anyway! Will you put hatches on the aft ends of the "bunks", or are they the same level as your aft deck?
The access hatches for my under-bunk storage boxes are on top, under the bunk cushions, which is a royal pain! I often wished I HAD those openings in the sides below the bunks like Bob had on the Unohu! He could get at anything very quickly, but I have to move a lot of gear in the cabin so I can lift up the cushion!
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
#118
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Re: Work on the V-Bunk Area
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I already have the pattern made to put a hinge door on the aft ends. The reason for closing up the sides was that by utilizing the aft ends I can slide large items in and out (fenders etc.) with out to much trouble. The only flip up will be the very front V and that will be for items that are seldom used.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#119
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Boat Jewelry
After 3 years of working on the 21 and still not done I decided to do a inventory on all the Boat Jewelry that I have bought over the same amount of time.
Just the Stainless... Yikes... I have spent countless hours filling holes and now I will have to make new ones (holes)
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#120
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Re: Boat Jewelry
I like those 90 degree floor drains. After all that hard work make sure you measure 3 times and cut once It's amazing how long it takes putting everything back together It will be a sweet boat when it's finished. I cant stand it any more I'm putting emblems and stickers on today!
strick
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