Trailer Information

[bumpdraft]

Ok, the op did ask for some measurements. Got the boat loaded up last night and was relieved to get it away from the end of the dock. I don't have the fenders on yet. The forward end of the wood portion of my bunks is 4 3/4 inches thick on the outer edge (tapered with the hull). The rear end is 2 inches thick. The good thing about having the bunks further apart I believe is that it gives the rig a lower center of gravity as well as not having to sink the trailer as far into the water (I don't have a winch). The bad thing is making sure to tilt the engine some, before pulling out of the water.

[Fr. Frank]

Ideally, you want the trailer bunks to support the hull immediately outside or inside of the vertical deadrise, so that there is no more than an inch on either side between the bunk and strake/chine. This supports the weight while minimizing hull flex on the trailer. Outside is better, because the hull will self-center while loading. Inside the strake/chine is the strongest point on the hull bottom

Putting the bunks just outside of the inner chine gives you room to forklift the boat off the trailer easily, centers the boat on the trailer earlier when retrieving, and raises the hull off the pavement higher which is great if droopy trim/tilt hydraulics are a problem. (I can't count the number of people who have ground down their skeg on the highway because of this)

Putting the bunks just outside of the middle chine gives you a lower center of gravity, less drag behind the tow vehicle, greater stability while towing, and you can launch without dunking your vehicle in the water, too.

[bumpdraft]

Agree with all that you wrote Fr.Frank. I've been tweeking on this trailer for many years, but it has been sadly neglected for the last 6-7. I chose to go on the outside, for the reasons you described and one more. It seemed to be a little less of angle there and putting less outward pressure on the bunks.
I keep thinking that bottom paint is going to wear off on its own. Guess not.