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#12
12-05-2016, 11:15 AM
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On my 18 I ended up cutting a piece of finished fiberglass slightly bigger than the fastening sick opening, bedding it in 3M 4200 and semi permanently fastening it in place. My bilge pump hangs from the panel on a fiberglass bracket. I have access to the bilge pump through a 6" inspection port in the live well. For any real work on the pump the panel in the outboard well has to be removed. Not the best solution but it hasn't leaked in 2 seasons.
Rod
__________________
The older I get the faster I was! 
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#13
12-05-2016, 12:18 PM
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How much water is getting into the well? If it's not a ton of water you could do a variation of this modification below. You have some bolts that might get in the way depending on how tall you make the raised area.
having owned an 18 . . . I would highly recommend making the splashwell gate permanent and water tight up to at least 6 - 8 inches. The floor baitwell is bad news if you ever have problems with your bilge pumps. 
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#14
12-05-2016, 01:36 PM
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Before moving the bilge access, I used a piece of clear plexiglass (used it on both my 18 and my 23). It was kind of like that commercial, I was a bilge "monitor", there was no way to fix a problem when you were out in the water, much less 25 miles offshore.
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