1972 20 Potter Hull - How Far Should I Go? - Page 2

hermco · #11 09-23-2013, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonV

Don....what a guy!!! You are sooooo nice!

boatervalpo · #12 09-23-2013, 07:24 PM

Thanks for all of the responses. This is some great stuff. Keep it comin' if you've got more.

I plan to trailer this to the work area this week. First thing up will be looking into the motor. I like the idea of keeping it IF it runs nice and is consistent on starting.

I have the original windshield but is pitted and scratched. Looking at this replacement: http://www.updplastics.com/seacraft%...indshields.htm

Also, does anybody know how the boat was branded with the SeaCraft logo? I see holes where it seems a plate was mounted maybe with the logo on the rear/sides. Decals seem to Easy for this model...

NoBones · #13 09-23-2013, 07:36 PM

Carla (65bowrider) has just what you are looking for!

Moesly SeaCraft

This one of yours is a keeper!!
Clean her up and enjoy..

Oh yeah, welcome to CSC!
Also, where in this great country do you call home?

Capt Chuck · #14 09-23-2013, 09:14 PM

Welcome to CSC!

I love the original "Tilt Wheel" My '73 didn't have that feature.
BTW: Keeping those horns pointed at the goods will wake your arse up for sure....

Good Luck with your endeavors

FishStretcher · #15 09-23-2013, 09:32 PM

Blue Heron is right.

Seal screw holes really well. Use 4200 or 5200 and glue down a tapped piece of fiberglass or aluminum to the transom for holding transducers, rather than drilling below the waterline. That's the only additional trick I can offer.

And DO check under the trim on the transom cutout. I have a thread on that alone!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You won't improve the value of an original condition Potter hull by cutting into it.

I would not recommend raising the transom if it's solid. With that light 4cyl Johnnyrude on the back, 20" will be fine. If the deck isn't soft, it's because water hasn't gotten to the wood core. Make sure any holes drilled for fasteners, existing or new, are sealed so water stays out. Do this and your deck will last indefinitely. No worries about the stringers. It will probably need new wiring.

If you're concerned about the tank, you can remove the console and the deck hatch and inspect the tank. If it's not foamed in place, it's probably fine.

If it were mine, I would clean the boat, clean out the fuel tank, put some gas in it, get a new battery, and see if that old motor will start. Then I'd run it a while with the old motor to get used to the handling. Once you've used it, you'll have a better idea what you want to do to customize it.

Bushwacker · #16 09-23-2013, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boatervalpo

. . . Also, does anybody know how the boat was branded with the SeaCraft logo? I see holes where it seems a plate was mounted maybe with the logo on the rear/sides. Decals seem to Easy for this model...

They used these signboards from about 70 thru '72. The plastic letters fell off so I think they started using decals in '73. I have a file for the decals you can have made at a sign shop, or Carla's SS emblems look great mounted on a piece of varnished mahogany!