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Filling holes in transom
Greetings Pilgrims,
Kind of a basic question and probably been awswered a million times but here it is: I removed a bunch of stuff from the transoms and wonder how to best seal the holes. Holes range from #6 x 1/2" screws from clamshells, to 1/4" holes all the way through from dive ladder. Oh, yeah, also 1/2" holes from trim tab hoses, and a bunch of #12 x 1-1/4 from the tab mounting plates. Obviously I'll be fighting gravity while filling the holes ,so I was thinking I could make little half cups from modeling clay and attach them to each side of the transom to eliminate running and sagging, thereby keeping the holes flooded with some neat or slightly thickened epoxy until it sets. Any thoughts on this method? Anybody know a better way? Thanks. Happy Thanksgiving, Pilgrims.
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there's no such thing as normal anymore... Last edited by McGillicuddy; 11-23-2011 at 09:19 PM. |
#2
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Provides gription and isolation. His great words. Zig is all about class 4 climbing. Snow machines, Love em, Cheers, GFS |
#3
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Just a thought. Let us know what you come up with and how it works out! Denny
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
#4
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Use dremel to bevel the fiberglass so there is a sloping edge to it.
On smaller holes I use a syringe to inject the thickened cabosil as deep as I can into the hole then cover with tape till it cures. Remove the tape.... sand and apply system 3 quick fair. On large holes first clean the hole with acetone. Then coat the inside of the hole with a good coat of resin...then bury the pencil like "Gofast" said but make sure you first inject some cabosil into the hole and then coat your pencil with cabosil to ensure that there are no voids..... then bury it! Tape it till cured then sand and do the quick fair over that. Or what ever else works as I'm sure there is more then one way to fill a hole. Happy Thanksgiving BTW strick |
#5
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What strick said. Overbore, bevel,hot coat, inject cabosil (I use a large hypo from the farm supply), insert hot coated dowel.
If you mix your cabosil thick enough it wont sag. |
#6
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http://www.westsystem.com/ss/new-six10-epoxy-adhesive/
Go out and buy a tube of Wests six ten....this will do the job. No muss no fuss.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 Last edited by Islandtrader; 11-24-2011 at 02:33 PM. |
#7
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Any way you measure it - dumbass is expensive |
#8
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We had some concrete work done, spalling repair and we had to use fiberglass re-bar in some situations in place of steel re-bar. I'm thinking that would be good to use as a filler instead of a wood dowell for larger holes.
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#9
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They make empty caulking gun cartriges. Mix whatever goop it is on your choice, (mine is an epoxy mixture), spoon it in the cartrige and pump untill your heart is content.
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#10
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Thanks for the feedback. I've tried all but the 2 caulk gun methods. The Six10 sounds pretty clean if the nozzle is small enough for the smaller holes. I'll probably bore them to least a 1/4", anyway. Likely have to use several methods again. Lord I make a mess w/ epoxy.
Still drying out holes with alcohol and hair dryer. Got a feeling some may be too wet and to seal properly.
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there's no such thing as normal anymore... |
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