30” 300 Suzuki mounting height?

[Bigsean]

Hey Guys I just purchased a 2020 300 30” shaft Suzuki for my 77’ 23 Seacraft.. question to all the guys that have been doing this for years.. I’m mounting it on a Armstrong bracket..from the top of the bracket mounting plate to the bottom of the v-hull I have bout 33”.. bracket was mounted higher than normal.. question is should I mount the engine on the motors lowest hole or should I still raise the engine a bit.. also any prop recommendations will also help...any feedback would be very helpful.. Thanks Sean

[DonV]

Remember the top mounting holes will be 2" below the top of the bracket, take that into consideration. As a FYI when we installed my brother's bracket, which was for a 25" shaft, we installed it with the top mounting holes 29" above the keel. That would make the top of the mounting plate 31". We went with the formula that every foot the engine is away from the transom we raised it 1".....plus one more for good measure. . The front of the engine is almost 3' away from the drain plug at the base of the transom, it's a 27" deep bracket and just under a foot to the engine in the vertical/square trim. . Good luck, gonna be a sweet combination.

[Oldboat]

Hello. I’m not sure what Armstrong bracket u have but mine is a wide one made for a single 300. If we have the same setup you should of ended up with 3 inches between the keel and bottom. I have had to spend some time dialing mine in and I would highly suggest a wedge without even thinking about it. Mike from international put one last week and we changed back to the Suzuki 3 blade and it feels reall good. Going to fill it full of fuel and see how it does with that. I would be carful moving much above spec or u may have a drain issue raising that flotation . My boat wanted to porpose but the motor top hole,wedge, bigger tab plates and going back to the 18.5 3 blade worked well last week but the boat was not as heavy as I regularly run it so after I run heavy I will post again

[Oldboat]

Originally Posted by Oldboat

Hello. I’m not sure what Armstrong bracket u have but mine is a wide one made for a single 300. If we have the same setup you should of ended up with 3 inches between the keel and bottom. I have had to spend some time dialing mine in and I would highly suggest a wedge without even thinking about it. Mike from international put one last week and we changed back to the Suzuki 3 blade and it feels reall good. Going to fill it full of fuel and see how it does with that. I would be carful moving much above spec or u may have a drain issue raising that flotation . My boat wanted to porpose but the motor top hole,wedge, bigger tab plates and going back to the 18.5 3 blade worked well last week but the boat was not as heavy as I regularly run it so after I run heavy I will post again

I said that wrong sorry motor mounted high as it will go

[kmoose]

It's funny how the same basic set ups differ. For me the Zuke 18.5 was absolute garbage on my Hermco bracketed df 300. The long blades wouldn't let me move the motor up high enough and I had to bury the motor trim to keep the bow down. After spending lots of cash on different props I ended up with a Merc 22' Bravo one. After a test run I could tell instantly this was the one but still felt the motor was too deep. I raised the motor three holes and everything changed for the better. Now I have ample stern lift, A higher motor height and now can keep the bow down without the trim maxed down. Also with the Bravo my cavitation plate is completely out of the water on plane and I can pull 90 degree corners in the channel without cavitation. Other than being expensive, Merc props are excellent products.

[Bigsean]

Thanks for all the responses! I will be getting the engine hung this week..I will be back with questions and pics! Thanks Gents

[Oldboat]

Originally Posted by kmoose

It's funny how the same basic set ups differ. For me the Zuke 18.5 was absolute garbage on my Hermco bracketed df 300. The long blades wouldn't let me move the motor up high enough and I had to bury the motor trim to keep the bow down. After spending lots of cash on different props I ended up with a Merc 22' Bravo one. After a test run I could tell instantly this was the one but still felt the motor was too deep. I raised the motor three holes and everything changed for the better. Now I have ample stern lift, A higher motor height and now can keep the bow down without the trim maxed down. Also with the Bravo my cavitation plate is completely out of the water on plane and I can pull 90 degree corners in the channel without cavitation. Other than being expensive, Merc props are excellent products.

Hey moose Keith here I’m not sure if I have the best set for my boat but it’s the best it’s been. If I was to see if I can do better with a bravo 1 to what I have considered what pitch do you think I would be better with a 19 or 20 or or 22 . Been rough the 2 times I was out but I’m getting around 23 mph 3500. 30 mph 4000. 33 to 35 4500 With the 18.5 to rough to run wide open will try next time calm. Ken told me most Suzuki don’t do well with bravo 1. I could trade him back the powertec for a bravo I
Thx Keith

[kmoose]

Keith, It depends on your load and current ride characteristics. There is a balance overcoming attitude issues caused by bracket installation and a lot of them can be made more manageable with the right prop.

I assume you are having issues keeping the bow down, especially in seas at lower speeds which is common with bracket installation caused by CG shift. In your case with a CC hull, I would go with a 20’. You will loose a couple of knots top end and your 30 knot cruise will be around 4500 but there won’t be a fuel penalty and the DF 300 likes to run at that rpm. The 22” is just a little to much when running in seas. Being a CC I would look to shift as much gear weight forward as you can but you don’t have to go crazy. The Bravo 1 will do as I discussed above but you will have to raise the motor up more than you would think. Also, I have a standard Bravo 1. They make several variations that may work as well or better but I am more than pleased with what I ended up with.

[Oldboat]

Originally Posted by kmoose

Keith, It depends on your load and current ride characteristics. There is a balance overcoming attitude issues caused by bracket installation and a lot of them can be made more manageable with the right prop.

I assume you are having issues keeping the bow down, especially in seas at lower speeds which is common with bracket installation caused by CG shift. In your case with a CC hull, I would go with a 20’. You will loose a couple of knots top end and your 30 knot cruise will be around 4500 but there won’t be a fuel penalty and the DF 300 likes to run at that rpm. The 22” is just a little to much when running in seas. Being a CC I would look to shift as much gear weight forward as you can but you don’t have to go crazy. The Bravo 1 will do as I discussed above but you will have to raise the motor up more than you would think. Also, I have a standard Bravo 1. They make several variations that may work as well or better but I am more than pleased with what I ended up with.

Ok I see they have the bravo I long tube or Lt is that similar to the standard bravo 1 ?

[Bigsean]

Contact k moose directly as this is not your thread