#1
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Reattaching cap?
The search function does not care for 3 letter words, so unfortunately I've come up empty handed.
What is the best method for reattaching the cap to the hull? It seems a bit ridiculous to just screw the thing together, though I guess there will screws going in for the rub rail either way. Adhesives? Glass? Would that be ill advised in the event that I ever have to pull the cap off again in the future? |
#2
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From the factory, mine had a bead of silicone all the way around and screwed. Then, as you said, the rub rail screws go through as well. I guess there's about 175 to 200 screws in all in mine. Should hold it.
__________________
1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg |
#3
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A glass tab is the ultimate way. But tons of work and not absolutely necessary.
But if youre already dong a ton of work including pulling the cap, then its not much to tab it back in in the grand scheme of things... If youre not getting that deep into it, then a nice bead of whatever sealant u like between the hull and cap, then thrubolts with fender washers will be just fine, and way better than just tapping screws. |
#4
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I used 5200 and rivets. Some say the threads of screws can saw the fiberglass. I never had the cap removed but worked the joint so I could inject the 5200. Nine years and no problems.
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#5
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Take your time with the 5200, life-caulk, whatever seal you use when you install the rub rail. In really rough water I actually take water between the rub rail and the hull and it runs into the boat, not a real biggie but it's something I want to fix.
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#6
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I used silicone and pop rivets. The rivet holes were spaced every six inches if you are using the original factory holes. I'd be leery of using something as permanent as 5200. Good Luck
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#7
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Mine is glassed and you’d be surprised how much it firms the hull up. Was well worth the effort.
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[b]The Moose is Loose ! |
#8
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4200 just in case you need to remove a section or all in the future. You never know. Will hold as good as 5200
__________________
1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#9
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I used 5200 to reinstall cap and through bolted it. Taco white gunnel molding screwed in and life sealed upper / lower edges for clean look.
Super tight and strong. |
#10
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On a fairly stock unmodified hull I would use silicon and pop-rivets with washers on the back side. Standard rivets alone can pull out but the aid of a washer in the back side will sandwich the glass between it and the head. Mmmmmm Sandwiches
On a heavy modified hull or one that has a lot of glass work done to it I may would take the time to glass and tab it to the hull. Lot of extra work but worth it if you have it tore apart that far.
__________________
Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf |
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