Suggest all around I/O power for Sceptre....

[bgreene]

Use would be SALT WATER, trolling, cruising, some higher rpm/ speed running, combination of conditions maybe 10-30 miles each use on ocean.......some longer.

Fresh water cooled system .

Want at least 45mph top speed, cruise 25-30 mph.

[Terry England]

Originally Posted by bgreene

Use would be SALT WATER, trolling, cruising, some higher rpm/ speed running, combination of conditions maybe 10-30 miles each use on ocean.......some longer.

Fresh water cooled system .

Want at least 45mph top speed, cruise 25-30 mph.

Bennett, They are perfect if you want to “cloud your life” with elbows, manifolds, billows, gimbal bearings, oil pans, pulling the engine to replace the starters, and such. For the marginally greater fuel burn on modern outboards, it’s a pretty easy mathematical computation. Bolt it on and roll!
I sold a perfectly good Seacraft in the 70’s because the Mercruiser made me crazy - as you can see, I haven’t full recovered!

[bgreene]

Terry.......yours seems the most honest of honest replies !!


I guess......and some say the I/O provides the best ride characteristic.

I'm learning more all the time, in preparation for my next boat, and seems three categories of Sceptre's available:
1. Trashed.......................trying to just give the boat away.
2. Needs work.................and quite a bit of it !
3. Completely redone.......and NOT for sale, why sell ?

[Terry England]

Cast Iron always works great laid in the keel. Fuel weighs 6 lbs or so per gallon so that is another option. Carl’s boats had water ballast to tame them. Some of us dive a lot down in Florida so all those tanks and all gear stop most of our boats from “jumping out of the water” (well except Kmoose’s - that thing will “Launch”)
There is a 30’ Alim at Pineland down in Boca Grande. Every time I see it I think that dang Bgreene would “wig out” if he saw that giant 30’ version of a 20’ Wellcraft!

[pelican]

Originally Posted by Terry England

Bennett, They are perfect if you want to “cloud your life” with elbows, manifolds, billows, gimbal bearings, oil pans, pulling the engine to replace the starters, and such. For the marginally greater fuel burn on modern outboards, it’s a pretty easy mathematical computation. Bolt it on and roll!
I sold a perfectly good Seacraft in the 70’s because the Mercruiser made me crazy - as you can see, I haven’t full recovered!

based upon my experience,which is pretty vast....


stern drives - they get a bad rap from owners who do not believe in upkeep/maintenance.drives need to be pulled yearly - lots of people skip this,which leads to problems.
bellows require replacement,5yrs is normal,exhaust systems - these require replacement as well,5 yrs is the norm.

starters,oil pans,gimbal bearings - these failures are caused,not happened.water in bellows,from leaking bellows that should've been replaced years ago,this ruins gimbal bearings,u joints and input shaft seals/shafts,and it brings water into the boat,via the "weep hole",which causes excessive water in the bilge - due to most owners not having a back up auto pump,under the motor,as far aft as possible,this keeps water off everything,avoiding water intrusion into the flywheel housing,causing starter failure...it's called "preventative maintenance",a very important thing...see how one thing leads to another ??

one of the biggest old wives tale is the - if the bellow leaks,the boat sinks - not true

input shafts are "o" ringed around the gimbal bearing - it's sealed - water will trickle out the weep hole.shift cable bellows - these will trickle as well.the boat sinks due to the bilge cycling,and running the battery down - boats docked with shore power,most people will never know there's a problem,with out inspecting...

I had over 20 customers with stern drives - Volvos and mercs - never did ANY of my customers have problems like that - reason being,"preventative maintenance"
in 20 + years,NEVER had to pull a motor,to replace a starter


there is no answer to what's better - outboard or stern drive,it's what works for you

[bgreene]

Thanks all.......comments on the actual engine choice for Sceptre ?

[FLexpat]

I am putting an I/O back in my Sceptre.
True scoop that you have to be more attentive to PM with an I/O but I kinda like tinkering.
An I/O allows the engine to be replaced without replacing the drive which is cool to a tinkerer like me but note that it is WAY more difficult to change the drive height (Imco shorties, spacers, etc).
I am putting a Bravo 1X diesel drive in (raised 2 inches even though this may make space tight on top) - the B1X Diesel has the water bypass for diesel engines and all the X series drives can handle a bit more torque than standard Bravos - this gives me the easy option of a diesel if I want.
I have a low hour 260HP 5.7 that I can use but am probably going to go with a different GM base gas engine:
LY6/L96 - 6.0L Gen IV with iron block and good alum heads, MPI, FWC, VVT, inch longer and inch wider than 5.7, 90 lbs less, ~380HP or
L86 - 6.2L Gen V with alum block and really good Al heads, DI, FWC, VVT, inch longer and inch wider than 5.7, 150 lbs less, ~430HP or 385 depending on chip.
Both of these engines have a good track record, are super efficient at midrange, have tons of torque below 3000 RPM and I think would have great cruise efficiency and long life.
This is not to make a Sceptre into a race boat which it is not - I probably will only go to WOT once for propping and would rather never get a gas I/O engine above 3500-4000 RPM.
This is the short version of how my choices are currently evolving but if a really sweet diesel fell into my lap I would jump on that first.
Everyone gets to live with the pros/cons of their own choices but I would not want an I/O on anything smaller than 23...
Meanwhile, I have to finish the rebuild first - I am supposed to be having some Corecell delivered this weekend for the decks but I am still a long way from a splash.

[bgreene]

Very interesting

[77SceptreOB]

Originally Posted by pelican

based upon my experience,which is pretty vast....


stern drives - they get a bad rap from owners who do not believe in upkeep/maintenance.drives need to be pulled yearly - lots of people skip this,which leads to problems.
bellows require replacement,5yrs is normal,exhaust systems - these require replacement as well,5 yrs is the norm.

starters,oil pans,gimbal bearings - these failures are caused,not happened.water in bellows,from leaking bellows that should've been replaced years ago,this ruins gimbal bearings,u joints and input shaft seals/shafts,and it brings water into the boat,via the "weep hole",which causes excessive water in the bilge - due to most owners not having a back up auto pump,under the motor,as far aft as possible,this keeps water off everything,avoiding water intrusion into the flywheel housing,causing starter failure...it's called "preventative maintenance",a very important thing...see how one thing leads to another ??

In your application, a small block chevy / Mercruiser should work fine for the #'s you are seeking for your Sceptre. 250-300hp would work great.


one of the biggest old wives tale is the - if the bellow leaks,the boat sinks - not true

input shafts are "o" ringed around the gimbal bearing - it's sealed - water will trickle out the weep hole.shift cable bellows - these will trickle as well.the boat sinks due to the bilge cycling,and running the battery down - boats docked with shore power,most people will never know there's a problem,with out inspecting...

I had over 20 customers with stern drives - Volvos and mercs - never did ANY of my customers have problems like that - reason being,"preventative maintenance"
in 20 + years,NEVER had to pull a motor,to replace a starter


there is no answer to what's better - outboard or stern drive,it's what works for you

X2!

EXCELLENT points!!!

I've been around boats since the mid seventies and have owned quite a few outboards, mainly OMC's and Yamaha's. My outboard experience has been pretty good. Although, I've blow 2 powerheads, rebuilt another and have had several other relatively expensive repairs. So the "Outboard" adventures have not been perfect, but acceptable.

Conversely, since the mid Eighties I have also ran quite a few I/O's, all Mercruisers (250/I6, 350/V8, & 454/V8). I didn't have a SINGLE problem with any of them! I did the preventive maintenance as prescribed, when called for, and with an open checkbook. The result was NO problems... at all, for 15 years. If you do the right things, you generally get the right results. Like Pelican says above PM is the key. Don't do it or delay what is necessary and major problems can and will happen. I get awful tired of people bashing I/O's as the "worst invention ever". But, I must admit I would rather work & tinker on my boat than fish and my dad was a preventive maintenance zealot so I am predisposed to take of my mechanical things rather than "Fish & forget it" as many part time mariners do. Like the old adage goes "Pay me now, or pay me later".

Ok the rant is over and back to your question. I think the power configuration choice depends on a lot of variables. Freshwater vs. saltwater usage, moored or trailered, activities you enjoy, how mechanically inclined you are, budget, etc. But I would NO PROBLEM owning a SeaCraft that is I/0 powered.

I believe a SBC/Mercruiser with 250-300hp would great and achieve the #'s you mentioned in your opening post.

[bgreene]

Guess I've been spoiled with my nearly 50mph top end rig.......

Given
1. rarely do conditions permit
2. not needed except for an occasional why not

BUT, I do like more than enough rather than not quite or " adequate " power.
Most of the I/0's Sceptre's seem 35-40 top end light is the most common.

What's the ticket for 25-35mph cruise and 45-50mph top end in a Sceptre ?
I've read about the 383 a few times.........comments ?