#1
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Repairing a Console to Flush Mount
I was lucky enough to score some "new to me" electronics from a friend who just upgraded. The problem is they don't fit the current recessed electronics box in my console but would fit flush mounted if I repaid the current (28'x24") cut out.
I would love the collective wisdom of CSC to ensure I get this right. I really want to avoid the Starboard panel approach and think I have a plan: 1) Remove the current box 2) Cut a plug (divinycel or marine plywood) to fill the hole left by the box (close on the edge inside the console and angled away from the edge outside the console for increased "bonding" area and to ensure penetration of bonding material) 3) Strap the plug in place (flush on the inside of the console and slightly recessed from the outside) 4) Fiberglass matt the inside of the console right over the plug out to the corners (should give @ 2" of tabbing on the sides and more on the top and bottom and bond the mat to the plug) 5) Let it set up, remove the strapping and start working from the outside 6) Fill the gap between the plug and the console with bonding material (straight epoxy? epoxy and filler? ideas? This is going to have to be almost vertical since I cannot remove the console for the project) 7) Fiberglass mat over the plug and onto the outside of the console (will angle the console side of the edge as well to provide "overlap" from the mat without going "above" the current surface) 8) Fair out the repaired area 9) Roll and tip a 2 part polyurethane color matched paint 10) Mount the new electronics in the "like new" console I have done all the steps on other projects and am happy with the results but, want to make sure: 1) I am not overcomplicating this, and 2) The "repair" can handle the weight of the electronics even if I have to cut through parts of the bonded area to mount the electronics Thanks |
#2
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Why not just use starboard or similar to make a new dash panel?
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#3
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Pics
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#4
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Starboard presents some challenges: 1) I will have to flush mount in areas that are 2x thickness on one side of the display (outside edges of console) and 1x on the other: creating potential mounting issues. 2) I would have to max out the starboard panel overlap on the console and be right out to the edges with the electronics. So I would not be able to do much to create a clean custom look with the starboard and 3) I am really trying to make it look "right" and have never liked the look of a starboard panel strapped to a console to mount new electronics (so, while I could figure out 1 & 2 I'ld rather try and invest the time and effort necessary for a complete repair...if I known it can work)
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#5
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Far from an expert here. But just a thought. You could use wood shims to wedge the repair piece in place and tab in place from the underside. Then remove the shims, cover the voids left from the shims from the back side with painters tape. Use cloth as you described on the outer skin, when it starts to kick remove the tape.
The process you described sounds about correct to me. CSM cloth will make the sanding/grinding easy because you can tear the edge near the repair perimeter. Take some before and after pic's, would like to see how it comes out. As far as over complicating the repair, even the smallest glass repair takes me longer than expected. Sounds like you have planed the process well. |
#6
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Construct an upside down cookie sheet out of 3/4" PVC BOARD. Size having overlap your outside console cutout.
Layout your electronics and cut out, Sand and paint. Screw the final deal to the console opening sealed with sillacone . Then you can just pull put the entire package without climbing under the console to check wiring, repair etc. So much simpler. You can't seal starboard properly and it wharps.
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1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#7
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Quote:
You can round over with a router and look stock. Or end grain balsa, mat, 1708, sanding, fairing, fairing, and more fairing. |
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