Teak

[offshorecorley]

What is the best way to take care of teak and what how often all the info ill need , thanks

[NoBones]

Snappy Teak is about the best I have used....
About $22.00 at your favorite Marine Supply.
And lots of Teak Oil..


See ya, Ken

[CaptLloyd]

If you don't mind it looking grey, teak requires very little maintanance, just don't let any blood/fuel/wine/etc get on it when it's dry, dry teak will stain, wet teak doesn't.

If you want it golden, that will require regular attention, especially if it's in the sun and/or get salt water on it.

If the teak is rough, first sand it with 120 grit to knock the grain down, then 220 to make it smooth. Always sand with the grain. IMO, freshly sanded teak is beautiful, but unfortunately, it doesn't stay that way long.

When it starts turning grey after a few months, you can use teak cleaner to make it golden again, I prefer Snappy Teak. It's a 2 part cleaner/brightener, but be careful, it is harsh on gelcoat and paint.

You can also use TSP (tri-sodium-phosphate) which you can get at a hardware store or Cascade liquid dishwashing detergent. With both of these, DO NOT apply them directly on the teak, mix them with water in a bucket first. These will bring back some of the golden color, but not as good as the marine products.

I'm not a fan of oiling or staining teak. Eventually, mildew and dirt will find it's way under these products, and then it's that much hard to get back looking good.

Finally, I hope my yacht experience can be helpful on this site

Lloyd

[McGillicuddy]

Out here on the lower left coast sikkens cetol products are probably the most commonly used, 3 coats every couple of years.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlin...kens_guide.pdf

weathered teak takes on a sweet silver patina that lets everyone know your boat is your pleasure not your chore. Check out Bigshrimpin's Seafari on Stricks "Life is good post." Looks pretty dignified to me. Especially with that Sierra Nevada Pale Ale nearby If you want long wearing sheen/bling check out using Smiths epoxies like CPES as a varnish primer to dramatically inhibit and slow down the mildewing & deterioration Capt. Lloyd speaks of. Glossy teak + sun + saltwater = hard work

[gofastsandman]

Guccification is on the list, but way down. I love all wood. Thanks for the heads up. I was thinking of tung oil but didn`t know about possible compatibility issues w gelcoat. Old timers on the Cape used to soak their bundles of cedar shingles in linseed oil for a month.Those are the naturally brunette houses to this day. Papa taught me that. He also told me I`d never be to old for a shovel....Nothing wrong w/ gray teak for now after a good sanding. Someone also told me never to use steel wool. Makes sense now. The older I get the smarter he gets.
GFS

[Bushwacker]

I've been trying to maintain the teak on my boat for over 30 years, and I've tried about everything. I've found that the 2-part cleaners are pretty harsh and actually destroy the soft part of the grain, so I usually just sand it w/ 60 grit before coating. The UV here in S. Fla. is very strong and raises hell with all coatings; teak oil seems to oxidize and turn dark in just a few months. I've found that it's actually less work to build up a good coat of varnish (at least 4-5 coats) and then every couple of years just scuff it with a red 3M pad and give it a couple of more coats. PowerBoat Reports did a 2-year test, I believe over in Sarasota, of 10 different coatings, both matte and gloss finish, in their 2/05 issue. They picked the Epifanes High Gloss as the best (most durable) gloss coating, and Cetol as best matte finish. In 11/03 they picked Honey Teak, as the best gloss. I've tried Deks Olje (both oil and oil + varnish), Honey Teak, and Epifanes, and I like the Epifanes best. In first shot below, I used Honey Teak on cabin door & steering wheel hub; it's heavily pigmented and a little darker than I like. The handrail & binocular box on port bulkhead are Epifanes. The cockpit sideboards in second shot were done with Epifanes, as was the mahogany trim piece in the last shot; gel coat was done with PolyGlow. The varnish had been on there about a year in first 2 shots. It was just done in last shot, but I try to keep a tarp or cover on the boat and that also helps all coatings last a lot longer.

[wavelength]

So you guys are talking about varnishing teak? Were have I been all these years... oiling!

[gofastsandman]

Hi Bushwacker,
LOVE P.B.R..No B.S. No wanker adverts!
Your boat looks great! I thought my brother was the fastidious king of shine! I`ve heard that after final sanding you flash coat the first 2 w/ no sanding in between for a smooth buildup. Is that right? I have access to a compressor and I can scrounge up a gun. Now I gotta learn how to use one. Do I coat the back as well? I`ve heard of that trick of blocking down a few coats and re-coating every 6 mos. or so to get going perpetually. Very nice! I have a bimini and was trying to source a cover. ? `89`20 sf.?

Ok ,so you start at 60 grit. Do you really start at 60? I would`ve thought 80 was too strong? Ah, so much to learn. Where do you end up? 600? 2000? compound and a buffing wheel?I was told never to use steel wool, even 000 on the last buff for obvious salty reasons that I didn`t think of......

Thx for the post,
Really looking forward to learning much at area 51.
GFS

[peterb]

Personally I like the two part cleaners followed by Cetol Marine lite.

[BigLew]

Steel wool is generally a big no-no on boats. The issue with it is that the pieces of steel wool that separate from the pad rust when they come in contact with water and will stain gelcoat, teak, etc. The solution/alternative is to use bronze wool instead.

With regard to final grade of sanding/buffing there are a lot of opinions and experience on the subject. Others here will surely chime in, but take it as far as you want to go. Just remember to let the varnish cure up before expecting to great results. My personal preference is to wet sand with about 800-1200 grit. For me, it makes the point of some shine without going overboard.