#61
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Hatches
Long time no update.. Lets start with the hatches.
For the most part the 3/8" balsa coring for hatches and gutters was in great shape. Other than where the screw holes where (those areas where rotten of course) Amazing for 50 year old wood. First we cut the hatches/gutters out of the old platform, followed by the removal of all the old coring material. Then we used scrap 3/4"coosa (from the deck cutouts) and 3/8" scrap divinycell to re-core the hatches. Then bedded the composites in with "hull and deck". Laminated with 1 layer of CSM and 1 layer of 1708. No coring material was added back to the gutter as the glass flanges are supported by the deck. We bedded them into the deck with "hull and deck" while outside of the boat. This allowed us to flip the boards and tab the gutters in from the underside. Pics of bilge rigging and gas tank to follow. |
#62
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Looking good. Keep at it. Perseverance pays off and thank you for loading your pictures straight.
Strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#63
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Looks great, can’t wait to see pics of the bilge rigging and tank install.
I have been wondering how you were doing since first reading your thread last year when I stArted on mine. |
#64
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Tank/Bilge
Alright gas tank and bilge here we go...
The gas tank we bought about 2 years ago has finally been set into the bilge for good. It's 54 gals and coated. We did not install it with any foam we wanted all surface areas of the tank to be able to breath. The only contact points are on the bottom supports. In those areas we used 5200 to bed 3" strips of neoprene to the bottom of the tank. It's fastened in place with some XL stainless screws. The screws caught the 2 inches of wood we used to raise the stringers. screws set and sealed with 5200. We used 3" pvc tubes for rigging running from the transom to the bilge.(based off squid lips) Then we downsized to 2" running forward from bilge to console. After cutting some holes in the stringers were were pretty surprised how thick the glass gas gotten. We made 1/2" pvc weep holes towards the transom in each stringer for any water that finds it way into the voids. Ran the PVC long and then cut them pretty flush bedded in with epoxy. (thanks Billythekid) Our bilge is pretty big from moving the gas tank forward and the boat will have limited storage so we added a shelf to the bilge. Not much but i think it will come in handy as a place to store extra stuff. We used total boat bilge paint since we were working over epoxy. Not happy with the outcome, the paint has already rubbed off in places. If it was done in poly i would've used gel coat. The garbord drain was drilled, then we bed a PVC tube in to help seal the transom. The transom is marine ply, but as you can see in from the core sample just glass and thickened epoxy in the cut out. The hoses pictured in the bilge are for the livewell fill and drain. The 2" through hull was drilled and backing plate mounted for the drain. Pics of console/livewell and deck install to follow. |
#65
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Deck!!
To pick up where i left off last with the deck--
Once we were happy with our plywood mock deck we traced the templates onto 3/4" Coosa BW26. It took 4 sheets of 4'x8'. Then we tabbed the two bow pieces together so we could set the hatch before installing the deck. From that point on we were working with 3 deck pieces bow, middle, stern. Because of our "seam" from epoxy to poly at the transom the lay-up varied slightly. Each deck piece was laminated with 1 layer of 1708 on the underside. Then we added the hatches a described earlier. Next we cut all the holes we would need under the console. 2 holes for the PVC rigging tubes, and 2 more holes for the fuel fill/vent and the livewell fill/drain. Left extra long lengths for all the hoses, doubled up 316 SS hose clamps on all connections. Hopefully we don't have look at them again for along time. Frist we set the Bow and Middle pieces (poly section). We used "hull and deck" to bond the pieces to the stringers and the supports along the hull side. set a bunch of weight on it and let it kick. Followed that up with fillets and two layers of 1708 off a 50" roll. We would use one big piece to laminate the coosa and as a tab to the hull sides. All poly laid wet on wet. Similar process for the stern piece (epoxy). We made our own thickened epoxy putty, set the deck with a bunch of weight and then 3 layers of 1700 to get a similar layup. all epoxy laid wet on wet. Got a layer of poly fair up front and epoxy based for the stern and that's how she rests for now. Finally looks like a boat again!! Even snuck a good day in on the 23'. Pics of console build to follow. |
#66
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You guys do good work...thats one heck of a fish in the wrap as well!
strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#67
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Thanks Strick. Been quite the learning process.
Extra passenger was a 96" BFT. |
#68
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What console will you be using and do you have it yet?
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#69
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Old'sCool - will round up some pics and post. We've had an idea of a design for awhile. Roomtomove finally brought it to life a couple weeks ago. It took way longer than anticipated to build but think we got it just how we want it.
Cheers |
#70
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That looks about perfect for a 20'. I'm researching one now I believe is made by Fast Marine in Fla. The corners at the base are recessed just right so a t-top flange would be out of the way. Just food for thought if you're going that route. Your work looks great!
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