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  #51  
Old 07-24-2015, 12:43 PM
chriselk chriselk is offline
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First two picts show extensive sanding of superbuild on bottom.
Probably was overkill as getting bottom paint.

First pic I have started long boarding near stern. Note some green colored guidecoat (food coloring in alcohol) still there in some low spots.

Can see dollies in this pic.
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  #52  
Old 07-24-2015, 12:51 PM
chriselk chriselk is offline
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Three Coats of gray Interlux 2000 barrier coat..
Then one coat of white Interlux (not shown)
We are going to follow with white bottom paint.
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  #53  
Old 07-24-2015, 01:03 PM
chriselk chriselk is offline
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So at this stage, we have 8 oz glass
Two layers of highly sanded (mostly sanded off) Superbuild
4 layers of barrier coat
3 layers of Petit Vivid White bottom Coat

The first picture you can see the result.

Time to flip back over. Pictures:
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  #54  
Old 07-24-2015, 01:07 PM
chriselk chriselk is offline
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Default How to flip a 23 seacraft easily

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yY-ojUoQ73o

Here is an action You tube of how we turned it back over.

Lots of tires under the cardboard. Used cardboard to keep new bottom paint white.
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  #55  
Old 07-24-2015, 01:08 PM
chriselk chriselk is offline
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Buddy helped get the boat on trailer.
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  #56  
Old 07-24-2015, 01:18 PM
chriselk chriselk is offline
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Default Hard Top Construction

We used 3/4 inch Divinycell foam epoxy/cabosiled together. It wanted to curve a little, so we let it and could eye ball it was close on its own. Not shown are the one hundred screws and fender washers that we glued the overlapping panels together with for 4 hours and then we removed them and put batteries on top.

We then put one layer of 17 oz on the bottom just so we could move it around safely. Then drilled quarter inch holes from the other side down to glass to act as "bolts" which later will be filled with slightly thickened epoxy. This will connect the two outer layers of glass.

Last two show the top, no glass yet, just sitting on t top as dry fit.
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  #57  
Old 07-24-2015, 01:34 PM
chriselk chriselk is offline
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Holes in top for coosa inserts for riggers, antennae.

Also, we are going to make corners more rounded than shown. You can see lines to indicate where Richard drilled holes for "epoxy Bolts"
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  #58  
Old 08-26-2015, 09:38 PM
Gypsyman Gypsyman is offline
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Any updates on this build?
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  #59  
Old 09-05-2015, 07:08 PM
chriselk chriselk is offline
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Default Continuation of hard top

Richard has continued to make progress on hard top. Very labor intensive as one off parts are.

Here is a picture of him glassing. It now has maybe 5 days of puttying and superbuild Halfway done and I saw a perfect used hardtop and metal t top for a lot less than this will cost.

Oh well.
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  #60  
Old 09-05-2015, 07:36 PM
chriselk chriselk is offline
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Default Glueing down Deck.

We finally got the guts to glue things down. Kept thinking we forgot something. The following picts are the boat pre glueing and after glueing. We are using Bosch FS as the adhesive. I had lined up a bunch of weights to put on top. But the damn fit was to flat we decided we did not need them. The entire perimeter was screwed down. We took flashlights and mirrors and went all around and it was tight. We were afraid if we used those weights the beautiful camber of the rear deck might be impacted. Leaving the screws in 5 days.

Since we are using 1.5 inch corecell for the deck, the gutters needed to be built up a little. We cut strips of 3/4 inch divinycell. The edges including gutters will all be glassed in.

The first picture is an upside down of the deck. Richard got a little artistic with his Coosa reinforcement. If you recall, the deck has to span the fuel tank. I would have done it differently, but the deck is very solid with two 17 oz biaxial on the bottom and one on top. We will put another layer on top going up the sides about 4 inches. Somethings to note. The dark gray inserts are coosa inserts where the t top and leaning posts attach. The t top has SS T nuts inserted as you can see. To make sure of alignment, we actually screwed thru the nuts to maintain alignment with T top. Second the stern quarters. The square cut outs are for access to the drains (more later) and cable wires to come up. We are using a GEM system which I will take close ups of later. Those 1.5 inch holes in the corners are where the deck drains exit.

The other pictures are a couple of the boat pre dropping the deck. Which by the way is so light and stiff two of us can handle it easily to drop it into place. 12 tubes of glue used.

the fourth pic is the deck screwed down.

The fifth is a landing net I made for a CCA NC fundraiser. Teak, mahogany,cherry, white cedar and juniper laminated. I have made about 10 of these over the years. I think I am the only one that uses it-I have left mine in the sun for about 10 years, varnishing every three. Still not broken, although several nets have been ripped netting redfish.
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