#41
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Thanks for the pointers. I went to home depot in search of Formica, turns out you can only get in online. I ended up with 4x8sheet of hardboard for $14. Not familiar with it but looks like it will work, one side has a nice smooth glossy finish. I ripped some 6" strips of hardboard and glued it to luan for some rigidity, also added 5 coats of wax. Hope they pop!! Screwed one in place and it followed the shape really well. Look forward to trying them out need some dry weather.
One question, has anyone kept the sheer on the cap while they core it? Before we took the cap off we tried support the cap to keep the flex in it to match the shear. Is this necessary or will the cap be flexible enough after coring it to bend it back into shape. Its not a great shot but shows it a bit. This is pretty far aft. Transom is just out of the frame on the left side. |
#42
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Few updates...started messing with some expoxy (transom was done in epoxy- this is our seam from poly to epoxy). It was a tough learning curve but wetting out the 1708 first makes all the difference.
Finished raising the stringers and tying into transom. Cleaned up the bilge, patched/putty imperfections, added a couple layers of 1708 to the keel and one layer to cover everything. Much better now some of the old roven was looking pretty aged/dry. Finished coring the hull sides to the transom. Divinycell all the way aft for thruhulls. Plan is to keep the balsa completely sealed. |
#43
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I'm confused. Was there a user name change I'm not aware of?
__________________
1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg |
#44
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The cap should hold it's shape while you re core it..it's the hull that needs to be supported as the sides may flex out a bit...but I see you guys are past that stage and have already done that. 1708 and epoxy are not a great match due to the binder in the 1708...look at what Dirtwheel has been doing as he uses epoxy exclusively...you kids are doing some great work and I hope you guys get this project finished!
strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#45
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Thanks Strick.
Uncleboo---Roomtomove is brother, the other half of the workforce. Maybe the smarter half, he's been spending a lot of time in FL. I've been logging the grinding hours. I decided to finally make my own account. The cap is all ground down and ready for new cor. The original cap was only cored in the bow with balsa. It wasn't as rotten as i was expected, considering all the holes drilled in it. Going with 1/2" divinycell for the most part and 1/2" coosa board where cleats and swivel rod holders will be mounted. I started with paper templates and traced them onto the expensive stuff. Coring material is pretty much all fit and cut to size. Left a 1.5 inch reveal around the edge or the coring. The cap we are making 6 1/2 inches wide in the stern. Bolster will be 5 inches all around. Also a nice morning on the 23', gotta have some fun. Sorry about the sideways pictures I forgot they need to be horizontal Cheers. |
#46
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Good looking work! Keep it up.
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#47
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Cap continued...
We got some good work done over the past 2 weeks. Reinforcements arrived from Florida and they were much appreciated. We were finally able to put something back into the boat.
Finished setting the molds, ground off the screws and got to work. 2 layers of CSM as a skin and 1 layer of 1708 to help fill the void. After this hardened we mixed some putty and filled any imperfections on the seam of new glass and original glass. Then a layer of 1708 over the entire width of the bolster to tie it all in. Hard board and wax worked better than expected, popped right off! Next, all the coring material was bedded with "hull and deck" onto the cap. For the most part we used divinycell, except for the bow, mid ship and aft corners were we expect to have more stress (cleats/swivels), here we used coosa board. Then we sanded down the outside edge allowing the glass to lay smooth. Finally thickened up some poly and made our fillets on the inside 90 deg as well as the outside edge to smooth out the seam. All coring material is 1/2" thick, as stated before 1.5" gap from outside edge. To finish things off 1 layer of CSM and 1 layer of 1708 throughout tying everything together. A 3rd layer of 1708 was added in a couple spots around the coosa board sections. Here's a bunch of pics. Pumped to see it on the boat. Topside still need some work. Cheers |
#48
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Cap continued...
couple more...
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#49
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Looking good guys. Excited to see the finished boat!
__________________
'89 SeaCraft 20 CC 200 Evinrude |
#50
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Did you have any problems getting the cap back on? I just pulled my cap last night and it is much more flexible than I was expecting. I plan to core the full length like you did however I'm worried I might have troubles getting it to follow the existing sheer.
How are you planning to reattach the cap? If you're planning to glass it back on please take lots of pics. |
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