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  #211  
Old 07-21-2011, 06:13 PM
Islandtrader Islandtrader is offline
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Default Re: Hardware $$

Quote:
Quote:
When restoring a boat (actually) rebuilding a boat one forgets about the Misc. $$ spent.


Yeah, the SS fasteners add up quickly, especially if you buy them at the local hardware store or Home Depot. And likely as not, they'll be 18-8 stainless, not the 316 stainless you want for salt exposure. I try to anticipate the fasteners I'm going to need and order them from Marsh Fasteners. Even with shipping, they're less than half what I'd pay locally.
Dave
Those are great prices...I wish I would of known about them earlier. Most of the time I am just doing trial fits with odds and ends, then go to the store for the real thing. Usually don't need them NOW.

Oh well they are booked marked and when the need arises I will definitely use them.
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  #212  
Old 07-21-2011, 09:06 PM
NoBones NoBones is offline
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Default Re: Hardware $$

I have posted this link before, but well worth
the look for that hard to find stainless!

Bosun Supply

See ya, Ken
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  #213  
Old 08-02-2011, 05:37 PM
Islandtrader Islandtrader is offline
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Default More trials and more holes !

Last week Sharon (wife) and I did the final test run on the boat to check out scuppers and bait well drainage. The good news is that the boat ran great for our 2 hour run. Not so good news was that the bait well overflow did not work so back to the drawing board...the pictures to follow will tell the story

In all this testing I have held off on glassing in the 2 rear sections of the floor, because I was not sure on the scuppers and the over flow on the bait well. Good thing I waited.

Original scupper set up...flush mount in the floor and then out the transom...even though I raised the floor 2 inches, the scupper was almost the same distance below the floor and did not allow a safe drain.





So what I did is basically the traditional way...straight thru the transom and out...this way it was above the water line and the flappers keep out any back wash.





Trial fit with out floor








Looking down you can see the short connecting tube from thru hull to rear inside transom cover.



This shows the trial fit, so cover will be flush to floor, but you should get the idea.



The next challenge was the overflow of the bait well...since the bait tank is below the floor it was doubtful it would drain, but I thought just maybe...well it neutralized out, no drain out but no drain in. Soooo I decided that a dry well with a bilge would work, and it does

2 side dry well using bulkhead and stringer...hold about 6 gallons and pump out real quick at approx. 1 gallon.

Template.



5200 into place...overflow and end of day drain, so I eliminated one thru hull and one sea-cock. So I think this was a win...





Bilge pump in dry well



So after all this you would think drilling in rod holders would be a walk in the park It seems that Mr. Moesly did not make the gunnels as wide as they should of been...I think he even mentioned to me if he was doing the 21 again, the gunnels would of been wider...

Outline of rod holder.



Ruff die grind out.



Trial fit, and now needs to be faired in..



OK so now I need something easy.

Dash Bilge alarm and clock..




I feel real good now so the 2 back floor panels have been epoxied in and now just a little more fairing and on to the next challenge...


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  #214  
Old 08-03-2011, 01:10 AM
strick strick is offline
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Default Re: More trials and more holes !

Just keep at it...if it were easy then everyone would be doing it

strick
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  #215  
Old 10-01-2011, 09:02 AM
Islandtrader Islandtrader is offline
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Default How To Rebuild A Windshield Frame

I posted this link in the general section just as a test...as I stated there this is not my work. How to make a boat windshield
Just reference.

However let me share with you HOW TO REBUILD A FRAME

Two long years ago 3rdday rescued a derelict 21 Moesly in the Keys. I gave Brian a call an asked if there was a windshield frame on the boat and could I use it, to make a mold. Brian said yes but it was real ROUGH and just keep it.

Below is the before and after. The sad thing is I did this last year when I had time during the doldrums and now a year later I am thinking this is not going to work for me on the boat.

Oh well another learning experience.

Pictures of it in rough shape...
Attached Images
     
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Last edited by Islandtrader; 10-01-2011 at 09:04 AM.
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  #216  
Old 10-01-2011, 09:09 AM
Islandtrader Islandtrader is offline
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Default Part 2

Not sure why but have to check why you can only upload 5 pictures at a time.

Rehab with epoxy and fairing compound.
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  #217  
Old 10-01-2011, 09:13 AM
Islandtrader Islandtrader is offline
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Default Part 3

Already to make a female mold..Sprayed with duratech. A lot of prep time but hey it was a learning experience.
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  #218  
Old 10-01-2011, 08:00 PM
65Bowrider 65Bowrider is offline
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Default

Looking good Terry ... So much better than what you started with!
Looking forward to Part 4.
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  #219  
Old 10-10-2011, 09:52 AM
Islandtrader Islandtrader is offline
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Default Important Equipment Installed

While waiting for the weather to stop blowing and raining so I could spray some primer on the inside of the boat, I thought I would get the V-Bunk area in shape.

Here is what the V area looked liked when I got the boat.

Early 70's Carpet Look





Over Nighter Set Up.




What I wanted was the "Sportsman" set up. That was to remove the bunk area aft of the V. I got some measurements from McGillicuddy and made this enclosure.



This was a good design by Mr. M. Now I can open the enclosure and make the V in to a small bunk.




However according to the wife I now have installed the most important piece of equipment on the boat.



Now you see it and now you don't




Hopefully the weather looks better this week and I will be able to spray the old girl some time this week with primer
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  #220  
Old 11-14-2011, 09:44 AM
Islandtrader Islandtrader is offline
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Default What Do You Think?

The main struggle since I got this boat is what to do with the windshield...as you know from previous posts I have embarked on rebuilding the original frame and gave up on it.

After serious counseling with the only other complete 21 Seacraft owner...McGillicuddy we both decided that the original set up is (sorry Carl) ugly and not user friendly. So this design will hinge the center panel so it will open to port. If I get real good I may have the starboard and port front panels hinge up for air flow.

So after some card board cut and paste I have come up with something that I think will work.

My plan now is to get some cheap pine and do all the cutting routing and fitting first. Then after that is done, go out and buy some white oak and do the final in that. Seal the oak and paint it white or black.

If any of you out there especially the wood workers let me know how you would approach this. Joints ? Fasteners? General help.

Also I have thick skin, so if something does not look right let it out now.

The pictures are pretty accurate, but dealing with card board it may look a little warped.

Template for base




Cardboard ruff shape





Cut out to approx frame size



Now some photo shop for color Black and White





Need to get this done before the paint goes on.
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