76 23 restore

[scowman]

Originally Posted by martin

Hi Ken,
First I measured the width of transom at Top, Middle, and Chine to chine also from Port gunnel to Starbord Chine . I reacorded all these measurements First and would re -measure so to keep track of the movement of the hull.
Then i used a block as a jig and traced the outline inside the hull..
Then i used a 4" angle grinder with a diamond blade. and cut on the lines
When I got to the top cap. I pulled all the screws out about a third up the lenght of the cap and used my Hoist to lift it up.. I then cut the rest of the transom up.
I put a few blocks to hold the cap up and just started to pry and pull the rot off the back...
I used a Bostich 36" wrecking bar, a eastwing claw hammer , a craftsman ballpin, and 2 steel flat wedges and some old large flat head screw drivers..
The rot was significant so it really wasn't so bad... as for the corners.. I tried to get the most out in the middle of the transom and then with the hoist and some notches in the wood. I used the hoist with a rope tied to the notch to Pull up and it rolled out the plywood for the most part in one piece...
when all the wood is out. I used a mirror to inspect the back side of the glass around the perimeter .. and a very sharp hand chisel i used to chisel out the remaining wood from the glass...

I then used a 7" angle grinder with 36 grit and ground the inner glass down. In some places I had to use a 4" flap disc wheel for the stubborn areas.. I washed the area with acetone and then I scrubbed and Pressure wash with degreaser..

Thanks, That's the best response I've ever had on any board, any topic, any time!

If I could ask another question, how did you settle on the remaining skin to edge distance? I have seen some a couple of inches longer. seems the longer it is, the better/stronger the tie in will be but the hard to get the remaining wood out. Are you going to wrap the glass around the edges?

[martin]

Originally Posted by scowman

Thanks, That's the best response I've ever had on any board, any topic, any time!

If I could ask another question, how did you settle on the remaining skin to edge distance? I have seen some a couple of inches longer. seems the longer it is, the better/stronger the tie in will be but the hard to get the remaining wood out. Are you going to wrap the glass around the edges?

I forgot to mention the twisted wire cup i used on my 4" grinder.. It worked very well for removing the wet wood that was still bonded to the glass.. It does not gum up just eats away at the wood..

As for the edge i wanted to get most of the rot out and be able to install my new foam piece easier... I am going with a1.5 inch 20 desity foam bord with two 24 oz roving inter twined in the foam.. Kinda like coosa board but alot cheaper..and i will be wrapping the glass around the transom quarters. And will not be using the outer skin... Just epoxy and glass..
I cut pieces of glass and tabbed in the inner liner to the outer edge of the transom. So i will have a clean slate to work with.. I am also skinning the inside liner with acouple of layers one 1708,0-45 and 1808,0-90

[martin]

I also used that measurement cause my 7" angle head can reach in most places and edges... You can turn your pad upside down and back sand the inside glass.. Just becareful cause you might cut your finger bad or off.. If the pad catches the edge hard... I woul not recommend on a high speed angle grinder like a 4"... My 7" is a pneumatic one

[martin]

Well after writing a long detailed version of the transom. I tried to post to no avail.. so here is the short version. Layed two sheets of glass up on the inside skin,. then cut all the glass out for laminating the two sheets of plywood. for the transom. the 1.5 inch foam deal fell apart so i have to use wood. And now that I have saved over 350 dollars by doing so. My wife is much nicer to me....

[martin]

Pulled part off the table. Cleaned up edges and rughed up the laminate. and roughed up the inner skin

[77SceptreOB]

is that "vacuum bagging"? If so, what is the benefit? Just curious...

[martin]

As far as cost go. It is more waste as in consumables but, I do try to use just dyi stuff. Nothing fancy just parts from hd and well I had a few vacuum pumps laying around... Now the benifit of nagging is if done correctly one solid part. With no voided or air pockets ..not to mention the vacuum pulls the resin into the grain of the wood...now if icould do Resin tranfer infusion.. thqt would be awesome

[martin]

Really though it is just another way of laminating... I just like doing it that way

[martin]

Here is the transom ply installed,I laminated the inside skin with the plywood laminate with thickend epoxy and cabilsil..Such A PiA. but it was worth it... Sorry no pics as i was working like a mad man... Left the wedges in till the next afternoon . pulled all wedges and the rearend is rock solid.. The remaining gap is just under 3/8" I have a sheet of 1/4 inch corecell I am going to laminate with two sheets of glass on the front and back to bring up the remaining Thickness needed. carefully wrapping the glass in and around the whole transom..So close but yet so far away..

[martin]

You can see the bottom of the transom as I stuffed a bunch of 1708 scrap ..cause as the resin was kcking off it would become a bit viscous . it is hard to get the mix just right especially with such a large part to bond with out it hardning to fast.. So i just kep stuffing the glass in there so that the resin would stay in the transom and encapsulate the bottm of the transon. When the outerskin is done. i will pour a thicken mix of epoxy and cabisol to fill all the voids on the inside. and pull a vac so to let it seep in all the cavities