1970 20ft SF Rebuild

[Kithogue]

Thanks Strick.

When morale is low after too many days spent in the tyvek suit you gotta change things up. We decided to clean the "shop" yesterday. All those hours sanding fairing off really tests your psyche. I think this was the first time the tent was cleaned in about 4 years. There were countless wasted brushes/rollers/squeegees/mixing sticks, gloves etc. All sorts of scrap. Also removed the keel supports now just resting on boat stands. Nice to have a freshened up works space.


Anyways...

We need some help with thru hull placement. Originally we were thinking the aft corners. But in an effort to decrease water intrusion through the scuppers we thought it might help if we drilled them next to the rigging tubes. This way when the boat is pitching a lot with some weight in the aft corner the scupper will be a little less likely to be submerged and creat a wet deck.

Can anyone chime in if this is a good or bad idea? The only downside we can think of is if the boat has a list at rest water may not drain out as it should.

Oh yea we added a splash well.

Ryan

[dirtwheelsfl]

If its pretty flat across with no crown it oughta work fine. Maybe put a hump in the middle in front of the splashwell so it slopes out?

[Kithogue]

Dirt - just they guy i was hoping to hear from. Recognize the splashwell design?

Are you saying you think scuppers next to rigging tubes would be ok? im just worried about water forming a wedge in the outside corners if boat has a list at rest.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Hard to say from pictures... Id probably just go right in the middle between your 2 drill placements there. Get the boat level and hose it out and see if it pools, can always add some material to the corners to slope it to the scuppers.

Its a small boat, gonna have some water coming in with people back there at some point. The driest scuppers ive ever seen were lengths of that blue collapsible water drain hose clamped onto a pipe coming off the transom. Ugly as hell but form follows function!

Splashwell looks good!

[Capt Chuck]

Like Carl designed. Port Scupper to Starboard Drain----> Starboard Scupper to Port Drain.
If all fails; Put the fat chicks on the bow not the stern !

[Kithogue]

Thanks for the input Dirt.

I think the last thing we were working on was the cap.

Frist we added some foam to the topside to level out the existing glass to the coring. We did this to avoid having to lay tons of glass to get things level again. Once level and shaped we routered the edges and glassed it in. We stopped at the aft corners where the cap would eventually be tied into the transom. Cap was all poly so we used poly again, 2 layers of 1708 and 1 CSM. We mad a real advanced jig to cut the bolsters to final height. Think we went with 5".

Next the cap was taken off and we added the splashwell. At first we were planning on skiff style transom but very happy with how it came out. Had to play with the design a bit but eventually I think we got the right angles. You can probably tell we got the idea from Squid Lips. Spashwell is made out of scrap coosa. We also added 2" of divinycell inside the well to give it some extra lift above waterline. Want water to flow out of this thing not in. Luckily our old marks on the transom were still visible and we were able cut 2 holes in the deck holes to meet our rigging tubes. Some big fillets were the ticket to getting the tubes and the well to play nicely. All sealed up with epoxy and 1700. I like how the well hides the rigging tubes on the transom and tied in nicely to the cap. Hopefully it keeps some water off the deck. We are mounting a 140 BG on the back so we wont have to run throttle or shift cables through those tight angles.

The FWD bulkhead is made out of marine ply we had at the house, thinks its 3/4". We didn't have any scrap foam or coosa large enough for the opening. We wont have access though the cap on the top side so we cut a big hole out of it. First made a template with luan just like the deck, then transferred it to cardboard to help shape the crown and finally cut the actual piece. Its laminated with 1708 poly resin.

While working on the well we raised the transom to 26" or 26.5" and sealed up any exposed areas in the notch. Will try to find some pics and post with transom work.

[Kithogue]

Couple more pics to go with previous post.

Also some inspiration arrived this summer. Happy to have our hands on the 140. Due to lack of heavy machinery at our house, handling the engine was a little tricky and slow but we managed. Slid it off the tuck using a ramp we had for a snowmobile. Made an overbuilt engine stand so we can roll it around the garage. Used a block and tackle we have from BFT fishing to transfer from crate to stand.

Oh yea the bro (Roomtomove) also made a sweet shroud for the 23'. Will have to get some pics of it on the boat for the fellas.

Cheers

[Kithogue]

Next we got a couple coats of fairing on the interior hull sides while access was easy. It took 2-3 coats until we got it to where we liked it. Forward 3/4's of the boat were done in Polyfiar and the the aft 1/4 was done in System 3 quick fair. The polyfiar is easy to mix which is nice all you need to do is add the cc's while the System 3 quickfair is more challenging to mix/measure (2 parts) but might spread easier as it seems to be less viscous. Make sure to sand off the glossy finshed before applying second coat or it will not bond and peel off!

The cap went back on for good. It is bolted in place with #8 and #10 bolts. We counter sunk the heads into the cap and put nuts and washers to the inside. We added bead of 5200 to seal the cap to hull joint to the exterior. The hull sucked up nicely to the cap almost everywhere. Unfortunately we did have some issues fwd by the bulkhead where it wouldn't suck out to the cap. No one will ever notice except for us.

We added 4 knees to each side of the cap for support. We made some templates, then cut some scrap coosa and hot glued them in place. Once set we added fillets and two layers of tabs either 1700 or 1708. For how small the knees are it took quite a bit of time cutting all the odd shaped galss. The fwd bulk head is also tabbed to the underside of the cap from inside the locker (that was tricky) and on the outside (aft side of bulkhead) on the Port and STBD corners. At this time we also finished the glass work on the aft corners of the cap. Frist we made a quick mold and leveled off the cap to transom with putty and filled any other voids. Then we laminated the cap to the transom/splashwell tying everything in nicely. The cap is also tabbed to the hull midship where we will have cleats and at the transom. Securing the cap definitely took longer than expected but sure feels solid now.

[Kithogue]

Next step was glassing the console to the deck. First we gel coated the interior while it was off the boat. We didn't do any fairing on the inside of the console we just sanded down the glass to rough up the surface and knocked down any sharp areas. We left a few inches bare on the bottom to accept the tabs from the inside.

To fasten the console to the deck we first started with a "Hull n Deck" filet on the interior and exterior. Mixed up a big batch and threw it in a mason bag. These are great for when you have a lot of filets, it makes the application so much faster. Night and day from how we did the filets on the strings a few years back pushing the putty around with squeegees and then smoothing it out. Even for small areas we have been using ziplock bags and just cutting a hole in the corner seems to work well.

Anyways, next we tabbed the entire footprint of the console with two layers of either 1708 or 1700 depending on what scraps we had laying around. The only part that didn't get a tab was inside the console furthest forward of the livewell where we had no access. This area did get a filet though. To finish we put some fairing on the tabs and another coat over the outside.

Inside the console we have rigging tubes coming though the deck in the aft corners. Then there are two more openings in the deck where the fuel fill/vent and livewell fill, overflow and drain will pass though.

Further down the road we'll hopefully add a radar arch to the console and it should support it well. Fells Solid.