Classic SeaCraft Community  

Go Back   Classic SeaCraft Community > Recovered Threads

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 07-31-2020, 04:51 AM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 320
Default

I used pl premium adhesive between my thermolite (similar to coosa). Great results. I torture tested it 2 weeks submerged. No loss of adhesion.

I used 2 sheets 3/4” for transom was more than sufficient. It’s rock solid.

suppose you can do honeycomb, I didn’t have that available for bulkheads. I used thermolite, again great results.

Raising stringers added more stability for my fuel tanks and deck kness and in general brought stuff together so do it where it makes sense without bing in your way. I did find them to be a tripping hazard and general pain.

Almost same thing on mounting my fuel tanks. I put in thermolite supports and act as mini-bulkhead. No tabs for mounting. I’m using aluminum strapping from each bulkhead through-bolted.

can’t speak to your tank placement though but I kept mine as from factory. My boat was modded with batts on aft side of bulkhead. I’m in process of relocating them under cabin sole with a hatch over them for venting purposes. 24x 14 or 30x14 depending on availability and shipping. Have a tray with drain holes and batt boxes for my batts. 2 house batts, 1 starting batt.

Be careful on #7. My cuddy was surprisingly difficult to work on and get it to look ok.
Doublecheck your seats. I don’t have any on mine for reference. But they are a little low from standard furniture but pads could offset that difference. Short chairs make for fatigue and cramped knees and legs.
http://www.parotas.com/en/standard-t...heights-guide/

I echo what others said about screw holding ability. My best was done with torx head outdoor deck screws. Those were my best performers but many other screws were just worthless.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-31-2020, 08:58 AM
Locke N Load Locke N Load is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 146
Default

I like the idea of the strapping to hold down the tank. Anything between the strapping and tank as a buffer or just metal on metal?

Seat height is tricky. I can make them 18" but that would match the gunnel/cap height and just be a really wide transom. Dropping them down the 5" gives something to butt up against a little. Literally. haha. I am thinking a little bit of safety is more important than full comfort for these.

I finally had a chance to play around with the samples of glass and resin yesterday. I made my working conditions sub-optimal on purpose. Good results with the 17 oz cloth and epoxy so I am comfortable proceeding with that combo.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-31-2020, 05:44 PM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 320
Default

Originally the tanks were aluminum with glass around them. No wooden bracing originally.

Pressure tested the tanks and no leaks but I’m rewrapping them in glass anyway. And put some 2x4 material for rubbing but I don’t think it is Necessary but it will at least support the deck.

I’d agree on the seat backs. More important they don’t fall backwards overboard than have perfect ergonomics. My carpenter came out on that chair thing. Cushioning should solve that anyway.

Good luck on your build. Many really awesome and helpful guys on here. They were a huge help to me.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
All original content © 2003-2013 ClassicSeacraft