Marnier 135 water pump issues/questions

[Bigshrimpin]

Originally Posted by cdlong

Rebuilt both water pumps today. New gaskets, top housing & impellers. My neighbor didn't have his "run tank", so I'm using the muffs with city water pressure which I guess to be 60 psi.. The port side engine has a steady stream, the spits, then steady stream then spit. Blew air into the tattle tail and no blockage that I could tell. Engine RPMs were 1000.
Starboard engine is the problem. No water at all. Blew through the tattle tail and no blockage. Ran again, no water. Removed the water hose from the top right cylinder head. Couldn't get water to go into the fitting on the right head. No problem getting air in. Put the city water hose on the coolant hose from the right head to the left head, water flowed into it. Dropped the lower unit again. Had to force the long tube from the power head to the water pump out. Bent the crap out of it.Water pump housing, impeller were good, top gasket between water pump top & bottom was ripped. Replaced gasket and reassembled water pump. Turned water on. Very little flow out the water pump discharge port. I have a lot of water coming out around the muffs.
Any ideas where my issue is? Won't get on the water tomorrow.
1st picture-water pump installed. 2nd picture-flow from muffs. 3rd picture-city water is on full.

I'll hook up an old lower tomorrow morning . . . and I can tell you if that is normal behavior on the muffs.

The water tube is just 1/2 copper pipe . . . you can make your own. It does not drop when you pull the lower. Be careful no to destroy the upper water tube grommet when you install the new water tube.

Tstats don't open on that motor until block temp reaches 143 degrees. You won't get much out the tell tale until tstats open. Running on a hose it can take 3 - 4 minutes before they open up and only then you'll get a steady stream out the tell tale. You can test your tstats on the stove in a pot of water. Make sure they open @ 143 degrees. You can get a infrared temp gun at harbor freight for about $30. Worth every penny.

http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...9465-8905.html

[cdlong]

Thank you. I never thought about the outboards having a Tstat. I ordered 2 new upper water tube seals. Hopefully the starboard side seal is ok and that I can install the port side from the bottom-up with the new water tube.

[Bigshrimpin]

Hopefully this will help you visually see the flow through the block. Save those upper water tube seals for your water pump housing . . . If you want to get at the upper water tube seal, you have to pull the power head and adapter plate to replace it. That's a difficult task on 30 year old saltwater motors

[cdlong]

Makes sense. I should have thought about Tstats because they are water cooled. Senior moment I guess. Now to figure out why the port engine has water flow immediately when started. Maybe Tstat is stuck open?

[GameOnSalmon]

Cdlong.... Please Check Your PM's.
Thanks Robert

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by cdlong

Makes sense. I should have thought about Tstats because they are water cooled. Senior moment I guess. Now to figure out why the port engine has water flow immediately when started. Maybe Tstat is stuck open?

yes, It must be stuck open or there is not one in there. The mercury t-stats open up at 143 degrees and you will not have any flow out the tel-tel till it reaches that temp then it will open and you will get some flow. A lot of the time the water on the muffs coming from a water main is so cold that running a merc on the muffs the t-stats will never open. The best way to check them is to put them in a pot on the stove in water with a thermometer and heat them up and make sure they open and close. They only cost $10 each so I change mine bi yearly with the water pump impeller.