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| View Poll Results: Are you interested in a splashwell for a 20 MA | |||
| No |
   
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7 | 63.64% |
| Yes. I don't need fancy gel coat. |
  
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1 | 9.09% |
| Yes, and I want gel coat |
  
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3 | 27.27% |
| I would pay more for epoxy and/or foam core and or carbon. |
  
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1 | 9.09% |
| Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#1
11-04-2012, 07:21 PM
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Building splashwells for 20 Master Angler
I am going to build a modified splash well for my 20 MA. It has a 20" transom. I think I am going to build a plug, then a real female mold, from which I can pull multiple parts. I will probably vacuum bag mine with a foam core. Maybe even do it out of carbon, as I have some kicking around. It will have a bump out so an outboard can trim all the way up- which is why I am doing this. Mine doesn't have this feature.
I am considering selling these if there is interest. Hermco doesn't make them, unfortunately. Last edited by FishStretcher; 11-04-2012 at 07:29 PM. 
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#2
11-05-2012, 03:07 PM
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I have an factory splash well on my MA and it wworks great
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#3
11-05-2012, 05:18 PM
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I don't even use my full door one, but the trim is an issue, nasty crunching sounds when I forget - I would use a split door like a Sceptre out of Teak or starboard hinging the top half and a couple bungies for trim. I used bungies for trim and it worked fine on mine cause I would forget I had it on, I go in and out too much so don't use it. Doesn't take any room and my MA has 1/2" molded cut out for it.
__________________
Any way you measure it - dumbass is expensive
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#4
11-05-2012, 10:53 PM
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Getting water out is just as important as taking.
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#5
11-06-2012, 12:04 PM
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If I ever got another 20MA . . . I would make something like this, but a little nicer.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=19593  Back in the day 2005 . . . I made a mold and did a splashwell for a 20MA, but I never finished that project boat and it went to the dump.  
Last edited by Bigshrimpin; 11-06-2012 at 12:07 PM.
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#6
11-10-2012, 11:11 AM
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The plug is started. It is solid, as I am thinking of vacuum bagging the plug and mold, just to keep the mess down, plus I can sand the radii into it with a long board before I attach the "bump out" to the door. Plus I don't have a nice table saw for compound joinery. I am more of a CNC mill guy than a Delta table saw guy.
I haven't done parts from scratch in a while- I am working in the corner of my garage for now until it gets too big. I will post the CAD screenshot of the tilted motor showing where the motor interferes. It looks like 8" is what I need with an in-line 4 cylinder 4 stroke like my Yamaha. Maybe Jorgeinmiami can take a tape measure to his to check clearance. I think he has a tower of power on his 20' MA. Two things I noticed: I haven't worked extensively with MDF before. Wow, is it dusty. I am using my paint respirator with the pink N95 "bodyman" filters. Cordless power tools have come a long way with lithium-ion. I bought a Ryobi 18V combo package, and the circular saw has paid for itself already. Last edited by FishStretcher; 11-10-2012 at 11:16 AM.
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#7
11-10-2012, 02:59 PM
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You could have "borrowed" mine to do a plug
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#8
11-10-2012, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
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#9
11-11-2012, 12:02 PM
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Ah fishST . . . have you considered adding a 9" jackplate and seal the edges of the splashwell gate permanently? That should give you the room to get full tilt range without having to fold down the gate.
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#10
11-11-2012, 03:37 PM
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My CAD model dictating the minimum protrusion needed.
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