anyone with teak spray rails...

[Garrison]

Guys,

I am wondering the most functional way to seal and finish teak spray rails for a good look and sustainability? I have been oiling them but am curious if anyone has varnished or sealed with anything other than wood oil. They get alot of abuse and weather so not sure if its worth the time and effort of varnishing every 4-6mos. Any input or first hand knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

[gofastsandman]

Depends on the look you like. Blond? Teak Wonder is a sealer and has to be applied every 6 mos. Eats gel coat so tape it off. Goes on easy like stain. I`m getting ready to re do the forward teak and will use it. I am also thinking of clear coating after to see how it holds up.

Cheers,
GFS

[BigLew]

A friend used Signature teak product "HoneyTeak" for his deck. It might work on the rails. Call Signature Finishes and talk with them. My friend Jon said that he had spoken with the owner a number of times and found him to be very helpful AND knowledgable.

[Bushwacker]

I've used Honey Teak, which was the most durable product a few years ago. It leaves a fairly dark finish. A more durable product tested a couple of years later by PowerBoat Reports is Epifanes Wood Gloss. I've used it on a teak handrail and the side boards in the cockpit of my Seafari. It's a lighter finish and does appear to be more durable than the Honey Teak if you apply the recommended 5-6 coats. All of the varnishes are more durable than the teak oils, which oxidize and turn very dark in S. Fla. in only a few months. I used the oils for years but got tired of the maintenance. The varnish is MUCH more durable, especially if you keep a cover on the boat.

This is a shot of cabin door done with Honey Teak. The hand rail and wheel hub were done with Epifanes.
The cockpit side boards in this shot were done with Epifanes.

This piece of Mahogany was done with Epifanes.

[Wildman]

I have come to the realization I need to pull mine off and re-seal them. Am I correct in assuming Epifanes dries to a super hard (almost resin like) finish? I dont want an oil, and there is already a coating of something on there that is flaking off. I have started stripping them down, is there a better way than sanding?

[Garrison]

Epifanes does harden like a resin, but seems to be one of the best varnish/sealers out there. There is a tool for stripping varnish/paint and if previous application is thick it is def. the quickest. Eventually, sanding is a must. I have one or two more sands then I am applying the clear coat.

[Wildman]

Ok I am starting to sand my rails, and get ready for coating them. Heres a question for you guys. After I sand them down and get the old varnish off, do I seal them to the hull with 5200 first or lay on the Epifanes first.

In my mind I want the wood to bond to the glass, then seal the wood with varnish. Or should I go the other way around and get a better 'line' with the 5200 sealant? Should I be using 4200 instead of 5200?

[krisis7]

I would seal the whole part first then attach to boat, this way if water intrudes it does not wick from the backside. 5200 is for permanent imho, 4200 if you ever want to take it off and do it again in the future.

[Wildman]

I never actually pulled them off the boat. On closer inspection there is about 2ft of sealant missing, and they dont 'wiggle' at all. My plan is to dig out the old sealant and apply new along with sanding and varnish. Will I have a problem with the 4200 pulling away from new varnish? It just seams like it wouldn't adhere well enough.