all this work for a boat ride!

[Old'sCool]

My B-60 is not that far off centerline. I can measure it if you want or I thought Airmar had a recommended distance. This shot is port side looking forward. The B60 is a tilted element only requiring a straight hole along the angled hull. Excellent choice by the way!!

[DonV]

I used the 20 degree B164 with the Raymarine DSM300 1000w system. VERY nice, so far no problems reaching bottom to 924' (the deepest I have noticed) trolling and no problems while underway. Installed on the starboard side about 6" to 8" in front of the live well. Actually used the same hole location where the raw water pick up was and moved the pick up to the port side. Works great, I highly recommend. I also had a very positive experience with Airmar customer support replacing my original unit due to a funny indentation on the transducer cord, the cable manufacture's defect. Full new replacement no questions!!!

[MasterBaiter]

I mounted my transducer inside the bilge shooting thru the hull. I used a piece of 4" PVC cut to match the hull, 4200 to the hull and used the cheap $120 plastic transducer. A piece of plywood suspending the unit and filled the pipe with non-toxic antifreeze.

Over 1400 feet is the deepest I've read with this setup.

[Islandtrader]

Can you elaborate a little more on this...

What do you mean plywood to suspend?

How is the high speed running?

Approx. how far back did you do this?

I am sure the temp. reading does not read accurate.

Do you have any pictures.

Thanks,

[htillman]

I epoxied mine the the hull to read through. About 6 inches off centerline and as far back as I could. After the boat is in the water about ten minutes it reads the temperature of the water closely. I have had no problems with this method of mounting the transducer. My friend just mounted one on the transom and at high speeds loses depth readings.

[MasterBaiter]

Sent PM before checking the board, probably left others hanging - sorry.

Everything is great except temp. if my PM explains it better, would you cut and paste it? My typing stinks and time is short today - thanks.

[nate22]

Its been awhile, and progress has been a bit slow.

First thanks for all the ideas on the placement of the transducer on my boat. Some very interesting and innovative ideas that have me thinking on how I will want to mont my ducer. For now I think I will fill the 3 existing holes in and start fresh with a new one.
My materials finely arrived so I could start laminating the new core into the boat. I decided to use epoxy resin from US Composites for the build.

For the transom

I really wanted to enclose the transom, and put on a Hermco outboard bracket,but unforchantly that will not be in my budget at this current time, so I decided to leave it open.


By nat22 at 2010-08-08

After I made a template out of masonite board I cut two pieces of 3/4in marine ply, and bonded them together using a think-end epoxy putty, that was clamped together using drywall screws and wights.

By nat22 at 2010-08-08


By nat22 at 2010-08-08

To clamp the new core into the hull I decided to use 2x4 with carriage bolts, and drywall screws, to sandwich it together. I also decided to take the advice of a fellow form member and raise the transom from 25in to 30in.


By nat22 at 2010-08-08


By nat22 at 2010-08-08

Bolting the transom together was a bit of a struggle doing it by myself, especially getting the carriage bolts lined up level, but it worked out ok in the end.

The next day I decided to prepare for the 1708 cloth by making some fillets around the perimeter, of the newly installed core.


By nat22 at 2010-08-08


By nat22 at 2010-08-08

Next came 3 layers of biaxial tape over the fillets.


By nat22 at 2010-08-08


By nat22 at 2010-08-08

I was not completely happy with the uneven suffice of the top on the new core. I wanted to make it level before I layed up the 1708 cloth. So I decided to make up a batch of thicken epoxy to make the surface even, before the cloth layup.


By nat22 at 2010-08-08

thats all for now